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Plenty of tanks use their own, proprietary heating element, like the Innokin iClear 30b; which sports a unique bottom coil much larger and more durable than more common coils.
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In the world of e-liquid vaporizers, every working rig has a heating element inside. Regardless of whether it is an atomizer, cartomizer, wick, or cotton-based rig, the heating element or coil will need to be replaced every so often.
In some of the cheaper and/or older tanks ( like the most common tank, the CE4 ), the heating element DOES NOT come out, meaning that the entire tank will need to be replaced every few weeks to two months.
Fear not! Those tanks are usually only a few dollars more than a replacement coil in a rebuildable tank!
So, here's the word: If you have had your tank for a few weeks to a couple of months, and you are noticing a strange new metallic or burnt cotton flavor, and/or if you have noticed a steady decline in flavor and/or vapor production, even on a full tank, then you will need a new coil.
Plenty of tanks use their own, proprietary heating element, like the InnokiniClear 30b; which sports a unique bottom coil much larger and more durable than more common coils. Still, most tanks on the market are very similar, and require the exact same coils.
For instance, the two most common coils on the market today are the Unitank coils used on most Kanger tanks ( plus a vast majority of third-party "bottom coil" tanks like the G-Tank and the SmoktechTumblr ) and the Vivi Nova-style coil used in many wick-based tanks.
There are a couple of caveats. In cases like the Protank 3 and the Aerotank, which are dual-coil tanks, the Kanger single-coil atomizers WILL NOT work EVEN THOUGH they look identical and do fit inside the tank. These tanks require the Kanger 2.0 Ohm Dual-Coil atomizers to successfully fire.
Further, the coils inside the T3S, Unitank, and Protank/mini Protank I and II will fire if interchanged ( they use the exact same design ), but don't always fit perfectly due to the size variations of the tanks and may leak.
While these tanks aren't the only exceptions, but don't let that worry you too much, because it's still not a very common problem.
Lastly, coils may come in different resistances, denoted by Ohms ( Ω ). This may cause confusion for some who are new to the vape scene, and do not have any electrical background; however, the concept is far from complicated.
Thicker or longer wires have a higher resistance and will not burn as hot as lower resistance coils which use a thinner or shorter wire. The higher the resistance, the longer the coil will last.
The lower the resistance, the hotter the coil will burn. When using any sort of variable-voltage or high-voltage power supply ( usually a battery ), it is a good idea to use a higher resistance coil as lower resistance coils may burn out rather quickly. On the other side of the argument, a lower-resistance coil does not require as much power to reach the same temperature.
In short, if you feel as though you aren't getting the delicious, fluffy clouds that you are used to getting, head on over to our shop and pick up some new coils. Just make sure that they are compatible with your tank, and that you grab the appropriate resistance for the type of vape you are looking for.
Just remember, lower resistance burns hotter at lower settings, but higher resistance can handle much more power ( and can get way hotter than a lower resistance coil without burning out, but at the sacrifice of battery life ).
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