Chapter 15 Scalp Care, Shampooing, and Conditioning

1. Chapter 15 Scalp Care, Shampooing, and Conditioning © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

2. “Ability is what you’re capable of doing. Motivation determines what you do. Attitude determines how well you do it.” – Lou Holtz © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

3. Objectives • Explain the two most important requirements for scalp care. • Describe the benefits of scalp massage. • Know how to treat scalp and hair that are dry, oily, or dandruff ridden. • Explain the role of hair brushing to a healthy scalp. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

4. Objectives (continued) • Discuss the uses and benefits of the various types of shampoo. • Discuss the uses and benefits of the various types of conditioner. • Demonstrate the appropriate draping for a basic shampoo and draping for a chemical service. • Demonstrate the Three-Part Procedure and explain why it is useful. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

5. Scalp Care and Massage • The two basic requirements for a healthy scalp are cleanliness and stimulation. • Treatments should be given with a continuous, even motion that stimulates scalp and relaxes client. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

6. Scalp Treatments • Given before shampoo • Given during shampoo • Relaxation or treatment: only difference is which products used • Contraindications: medical conditions that may prohibit the service © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

7. Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment • Purpose: to maintain scalp and hair in a clean and healthy condition • Perform treatment only after full hair and scalp examination. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

8. Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment • Used if natural oil is deficient • Treatment products: contain moisturizing and emollient ingredients • Avoid strong soaps, greasy preparations, lotions with high alcohol content. Use a scalp steamer. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

9. Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment • Cause: overactive sebaceous glands • Purpose: to flush out excess sebum through gentle pressing or squeezing © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

10. Antidandruff Treatment • Cause: a fungus called malassezia • Purpose: to suppress the growth of malassezia and loosen scalp scales © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

11. Brushing the Hair • Correct brushing stimulates the blood circulation of the scalp; helps remove dust, dirt, and hair-spray buildup; and gives added shine. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

12. Hair-Brushing Exceptions • Avoid before chemical service • Avoid if scalp is irritated • Avoid before haircolor procedures © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

13. Hairbrushes • Natural bristles: most highly recommended to clean and add luster to the hair • Nylon bristles: shiny, smooth, and more suitable for hairstyling © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

14. Scalp Analysis • Dry, dehydrated hair • Abnormal flaking on scalp • Thinning of the hair • Open wounds or scalp irritations • Excessive hair in sink • Scalp disorders or disease • Dry, tight scalp • Oily scalp • Tick or lice infestation © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

15. Shampoo Selection • As a professional, you must become skilled at selecting shampoos that support the health of the hair, whether the hair is natural, color-treated, fine and limp, or coarse and wiry. • Product knowledge is critical (read labels). © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

16. Selection Considerations • Hair type: dry, oily, normal, chemically treated • Hair condition: overprocessed, chemically treated, damaged by harsh products or improper care, exposure to elements • Home maintenance • pH-balanced shampoos © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

17. Potential Hydrogen (pH) • The small p represents a quantity. • The capital H represents the hydrogen ion. • The amount of hydrogen in a solution is measured on a logarithmic scale ranging from 1 to 14. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

18. Potential Hydrogen (pH) (continued) • Acid: 0 to 6.9 pH • Neutral: 7.0 pH • Alkaline: 7.1 to 14 pH • pH-balanced shampoos: 4.5 to 5.5 pH © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

19. The Chemistry of Water • Purification – Sedimentation – Filtration – Chlorine added – Boiling – Distillation • Soft water • Hard water © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

20. The Chemistry of Shampoos (continued) • Water • Surfactant Molecule (surface active agent) – Hydrophilic end © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

21. The Chemistry of Shampoos (continued) – Lipophilic end © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

22. Types of Shampoos • pH-balanced • Balancing • Conditioning • Dry or powder • Medicated • Color-enhancing • Clarifying • For hairpieces and wigs © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

23. A Great Shampoo Experience • Massage for client preference. • Adjust water temperature for client choice. • Don’t wet client’s face. • Double-check nape area. • Do not drench towel around neck. • Blot hair, not face. • Give relaxation massage. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

24. Shampooing and Retailing • Use the shampoo time to better establish your professional relationship with the client and promote quality products for at-home use. • During the shampoo give clients information about what you are doing and why. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

25. Understanding Conditioners • Deposit protein and moisturizer • Restore strength and give body • Protect against breakage • Types – Rinse-out – Treatment or repair – Leave-in © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

26. Formulation • Silicone and moisture-binding humectants • Emollients • Synthetic polymers • Proteins © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

27. Other Conditioning Agents • Spray-on thermal protectors • Scalp conditioners • Medicated scalp lotions • Scalp astringent lotions © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

28. Deep-Conditioning Treatments • Also known as masks or conditioning packs • Mixtures of concentrated protein in a heavy cream base of a moisturizer • Penetrate the cuticle layer • Used when an equal degree of moisturizing and protein is required © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

29. Draping • Client must be properly draped for each service. • Shampoo (wet) draping: two terry towels used, one under cape and one over; replaced with neck strip and cape • Chemical-service draping: two terry towels used, one under cape and one over, which remain during service © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

30. Three-Part Procedure • Pre-service: preparation • Service: practical service on client • Post-service: caring for client after service and clean-up © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

31. Practical Class • Pre-Service Procedure • Post-Service Procedure • Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment • Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment • Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment • Antidandruff Treatment © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

32. Practical Class (continued) • Brushing the Hair • Draping for a Shampoo • Draping for a Chemical Service • Basic Shampoo and Conditioning • Scalp Massage © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

33. Summary and Review • What are the two most important requirements for scalp care? • How should scalp and hair that are dry, oily, or with dandruff be treated? • What are the benefits of scalp massage? © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

34. Summary and Review (continued) • Why is hair brushing important for maintaining a healthy scalp and hair? • What shampoo is appropriate for use on dandruff? On product buildup? On damaged hair? • What is the action of conditioner on hair? © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

35. Congratulations! You have completed one unit of study toward course completion. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.