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Fig. 10-CO, p. 264

Fig. 10-CO, p. 264. Fig. 10-1, p. 266. Wave direction. Wave. Fig. 10-1, p. 266. Wave. Wave direction. Stepped Art. Fig. 10-1, p. 266. Fig. 10-2, p. 266. Direction of wave motion. A. B. Wavelength. Height. Still water level. Trough. Crest.

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Fig. 10-CO, p. 264

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  1. Fig. 10-CO, p. 264

  2. Fig. 10-1, p. 266

  3. Wave direction Wave Fig. 10-1, p. 266

  4. Wave Wave direction Stepped Art Fig. 10-1, p. 266

  5. Fig. 10-2, p. 266

  6. Direction of wave motion A B Wavelength Height Still water level Trough Crest Frequency: Number of wave crests passing point A or point B each second Orbital path of individual water molecule at water surface Period: Time required for wave crest at point A to reach point B Fig. 10-2, p. 266

  7. Fig. 10-3, p. 267

  8. Direction of wave motion Wave-length Still water level Crest Crest Trough 1/2 wave-length depth Fig. 10-3, p. 267

  9. Fig. 10-4, p. 267

  10. Stokes drift (mass transport) No mass transport Wave Wave Closed orbit after one period Open orbit after one period Fig. 10-4, p. 267

  11. Table 10-1, p. 268

  12. Fig. 10-5, p. 269

  13. Seismic disruption Disturbing force Gravity Wind landslides Surface tension Gravity Restoring force Tide Tsunami Seiche Wind wave Capillary wave (ripple) Type of wave 24 hr. 12 hr. Amount of energy in ocean surface 100,000 sec (1 1/4 days) 10,000 sec (3 hr) 1,000 sec (17 min) 100 sec 10 sec 1 sec 1/10 sec 1/100 sec 1 10 100 Period (time, in seconds for two successive wave crests to pass a fixed point) Frequency (waves per second) Fig. 10-5, p. 269

  14. Fig. 10-6, p. 269

  15. Fig. 10-7, p. 270

  16. Wavelength (m) 0 100 200 300 400 500 600 30.6 27.8 17 62 18 15 25.0 16 50 13 22.2 11 14 19.4 12 37 Speed (mph) Period (in seconds) 16.6 9 Speed (m/sec) 10 13.8 7 25 11.0 8 5 6 8.4 3 4 13 5.6 2 2.8 1 0 0.0 0 328 656 984 1,312 1,640 1,968 Wavelength (ft) Fig. 10-7, p. 270

  17. Fig. 10-8, p. 271

  18. Wind b Sea surface a Maximum wavelength 1.73 cm (0.68 in.) Fig. 10-8, p. 271

  19. Fig. 10-9, p. 271

  20. Fig. 10-10, p. 272

  21. 5 4 3 2 1 6 5 4 3 2 1 6 5 4 3 2 7 6 5 4 3 7 6 5 4 3 7 6 5 4 8 7 6 5 8 7 6 5 Fig. 10-10, p. 272

  22. 5 4 3 2 1 6 5 4 3 2 1 6 5 4 3 2 7 6 5 4 3 7 6 5 4 3 7 6 5 4 8 7 6 5 8 7 6 5 Stepped Art Fig. 10-10, p. 272

  23. Fig. 10-11, p. 273

  24. Changing to swell Fully developed seas Ripples to chop to wind waves Direction of wave advance Wind Length of fetch Fig. 10-11, p. 273

  25. Table 10-2, p. 273

  26. Fig. 10-12, p. 274

  27. Fig. 10-13, p. 274

  28. Fig. 10-14, p. 275

  29. 7 across 1 high 120° Fig. 10-14, p. 275

  30. Fig. 10-15, p. 275

  31. 1 2 a b Constructive interference (addition) Destructive interference (subtraction) Constructive interference (addition) Fig. 10-15, p. 275

  32. Fig. 10-16, p. 276

  33. Fig. 10-17, p. 277

  34. 2 1 5 4 3 Depth = 1/2 wavelength Surf zone Fig. 10-17, p. 277

  35. Box 10-1, p. 278

  36. Fig. 10-18a, p. 279

  37. Fig. 10-18b, p. 279

  38. Fig. 10-19a, p. 279

  39. Direction of progress Wave crests Waves begin to "feel bottom" here, water depth is L/2. Bottom contours Shoreline Fig. 10-19a, p. 279

  40. Fig. 10-19b, p. 279

  41. Fig. 10-20a, p. 280

  42. Fig. 10-20b, p. 280

  43. Waves A and B create a checkerboard of peaks and troughs A B Fig. 10-20b, p. 280

  44. Fig. 10-21, p. 280

  45. Fig. 10-22, p. 280

  46. 0 (Every tenth wave crest shown) Waves moving 10 20 30 Islands Areas of wave crest reinforcement due to diffraction and interference Fig. 10-22, p. 280

  47. Fig. 10-23, p. 281

  48. Node Node Node Crest Crest Maximum water flow Trough No motion No motion 2 3 1 Fig. 10-23a, p. 281

  49. Node Node Crest Trough Trough No motion Maximum water flow 4 5 Starts again at 2 Fig. 10-23b, p. 281

  50. Fig. 10-24a, p. 282

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