Orientation to Brewing

1. Orientation to Brewing Boeing Employees Wine and Beer Makers Club

2. Overview • Introduction to Homebrewing • Ingredients • Equipment • Brewing • Brew Day • Bottling Day • Results

3. Homebrewing • Legal, fun, and rewarding • Nationally re-legalized in 1978 • Still not recognized in a few states (Washington – OK) • 100 gallons per person/year, 200 gallons per household • Just don’t sell it (but it is traded quite often!) • Why homebrew? • Relaxing • Variety – customized beer • Fun • Ease • Cost • Socialization • Art / Science

4. What’s in beer? • Malt sugars – food for yeast making alcohol • More sugar, more potential for alcohol • Grains impart malt flavor • Hops – bitterness, flavor, and aroma • Depends on when added • Early – bitterness • Late – flavor • Very late - aroma • Water – 95% of beer • Yeast – conducts the fermentation • Different strains produce different flavors • Ales vs Lagers

5. References and Sources • American Homebrewer’s Association • http://www.beertown.org/homebrewing/beginning.html • Beer Nut – Utah Homebrewing Store • http://www.beernut.com/Web_store/extract.pdf • Larry’s Brewing Supply • http://www.larrysbrewsupply.com • Beer, Beer, and More Beer • http://www.morebeer.com • Books • The Complete Joy of Homebrewing • The Homebrewer’s Companion

6. Homebrewing Overview • Brewing Day (2-3 hours) • Boiling malt extract and hops to create yeast food • Primary Fermentation (3-7 days) • Yeast devour sugars and produce alcohol • Racking (Siphoning) (30 minutes) • Clear “green” beer is siphoned away from sediment • Secondary Fermentation (7-14 days) • Remaining sugars fermented, yeast go dormant • Bottling (2-3 hours) • Beer is transferred, receives sugar for carbonation, and is bottled • Waiting (2+ weeks) • Start brewing more beer while waiting • Drinking (gets fuzzy) • Lecture will use Beer Nut guide as reference

7. Ingredients for 5 gallons (standard) • Beginner – Intermediate! • 5-7 lbs hop-flavored malt extract or… • 5-7 lbs unhopped malt extract or… • 6-10 lbs malt (advanced) • 0-2 lbs specialty grains • 0-3 oz hops • 5 gallons water • 1 yeast package • Bottling: ¾ cup dextrose or 1 ¼ cup dry malt extract

8. Today’s Recipe: ESB • 7 lb Light Malt Extract • 2 oz 10 L Crystal Malt • 8 oz 20 L Crystal Malt • 4 oz 60 L Crystal Malt • 1 oz Victory Wheat Malt • 4 oz Belgian Biscuit Malt • 4 oz Belgian Aromatic Malt • 1.5 oz Kent Goldings Pellet Hops (@5.3% AA) – 60 mins (bitterness) • 1.5 oz Kent Golding Pellet Hops (@5.3% AA) – 10 mins (flavor) • 1.0 oz Kent Golding Leaf Hops (@4.2% AA) – steep (aroma) • 1 pack Fermentis S-04 English Ale Yeast

9. Basic Equipment • Things you will already have: • Pot with 1.5-5 gallon capacity • Aim for 2.5 gallons at least to prevent boil-overs • Cooking spoon – plastic or metal • Can opener • Measuring cup (at least 1 cup) • Clean cup or small bowl (possibly with lid)

10. Basic Equipment • Basic items you will need to buy • 6.5 – 7 gallon plastic bucket with tight fitting lid with hole drilled in the top (for attaching airlock) • Airlock and stopper – sized for bucket • Racking cane and 5-6’ tubing: racking = siphoning • Bottling bucket with spigot (typically 6.5-7 gallons) • Bottle filler • Bottle capper • Sanitizing agent • Bottles – not twist-off • Bottle cleaning brush • Notebook

11. Optional Accessories • Hydrometer • Glass carboy(s) • Large funnel • Carboy handle • Thermometer • Nylon grain/hop bag • Bottle washer • Expendables: • Bottle caps • Muslin grain/hop bags

12. Basic Starter Kit $49.95 6 gal plastic fermenter w/spigot and airlock LCD Thermometer The New Complete Joy of Homebrewing 4 ft Transfer Tubing Twin lever bottle capper 144 bottle caps 3/4 cup priming sugar 6 gal plastic priming bucket w/spigot Basic Carboy Kit $72.95 6 gal carboy, stopper and airlock LCD Thermometer The New Complete Joy of Homebrewing 4 ft Transfer Tubing Twin lever bottle capper 144 bottle caps Slant funnel Carboy brush 3/4 cup priming sugar 6 gal plastic priming bucket w/spigot Deluxe Kits (add $105): Add to the basic kit 20 ft wort chiller Hydrometer 20 qt stock pot 18 in plastic paddle 8 oz I-O-Safe 2 cases 12 oz beer bottles Bottle washer and adapter 3 lb Briess Pilsen Light Unhopped Extract Any can of Munton's Hopped Kit Personal Recommended Additions to Basic Kit Hydrometer Bottle washer and adapter 5 gal carboy Nylon grain/hop bag Kits Available at Larry’s

13. Sanitization / Sterilization • If you are very careful to sanitize all your equipment you can be assured that every batch of beer you make will be excellent • Sanitation is very simple but so important that you must make it a ritual before any brewing activity • Sanitize (clean) first, sterilize second • Any deposits on the equipment will harbor bacteria which the sanitizing solution will not be able to reach • Do not clean with any abrasive cleaners or equipment which could scratch your equipment • Scratches in plastic are notorious for harboring beer spoiling bacteria • Once clean, soak items in a sanitizing solution (bleach, one-step, iodophor, or Star Stan) • Whenever you transfer the beer, never start the siphon with your mouth • There are always bacteria and wild yeast in your mouth • Either prime the siphon using tap water or use a siphon starter • Beginner’s Best Friend: Clorox (sanitizer and sterilant)

14. Sanitation/Sterilization • On brewing day, this includes the following items: • Fermenter & lid • Air lock parts and stopper • Thermometer • Hydrometer • Funnel (if applicable) • Cup or bowl used for mixing the yeast • On racking day, this includes: • Racking cane and transfer tubing • Hydrometer • Secondary fermentation vessel • On bottling day, this includes: • Racking or Bottling Bucket • Racking cane and transfer tubing • Bottle filler • Measuring cup used for priming sugar • Hydrometer • Bottles and bottle caps • Any other object that comes into contact with the beer

15. Let’s get started…Heating Extract • Remove the lids and labels from all the cans or jars of malt extract • Place these containers in a pan/sink of warm (not hot) water and let sit • This step is not strictly necessary but makes pouring the extract much easier and quicker

16. Steeping Specialty Grains • Add ½ - 1 gallon of water to your brewpot • Make sure that you leave enough space so that after adding the malt there will be at least a few inches of headspace to keep from boiling over • If your kit doesn't use grains then proceed to the next step (but add an extra ½ gallon of water to your pot) • If your kit includes specialty grains, take these grains and pour them into the steeping bag • Tie the bag and place it into the pot • Bring the water to 155 F and hold at that temp for 30-45 min • In a smaller pot, bring ½ gallon of water to 180 F • After time has expired, carefully remove the grain bag from the water with a set of tongs and “rinse” the grains with the ½ gallon of water • Do not squeeze grains – extracts harsh flavors

17. Adding Malt Extract and Hops • Once water is close to boiling, take the brewpot off the heat and add the malt extract while stirring constantly • By removing the pot from the heat you reduce the chances of scorching the extract on the bottom of the pot • If your kit has dry malt extract, always add this before the water is boiling (won’t clump as much) • Once the malt has been mixed into the water put the mixture (called the wort) back on the heat and bring to a boil • Place the bittering hops into a hop bag, tie the bag closed, and add to the boiling wort • Take note of the time that the boil started • Allow the wort to boil for 60 minutes at a slow rolling boil • If your kit has “flavor” hops, add them with 10-15 minutes before the end of the boil (follow recipe)

18. Adding Finishing Hops and Cooling Wort • If your kit comes with finishing/aroma hops place them into a hop bag and add them to the boiling wort 2-5 minutes before the end of the 60-minute boil • At the end of the 60 minute boil, remove the pot from the heat and place lid onto pot • Place the boiling pot into a sink or tub of cold water. Use ice if tap water is not very cold • Allow the wort to cool for about 15-30 minutes • During this time it is very important not to open the lid or allow unsanitized items contact the wort in any way • Fill your already-sanitized plastic or glass fermenter about one-half to two-thirds full (approximately three gallons, or 11.36 L) with cold tap water

19. Rehydrating the Yeast • Rehydrate the brewing yeast by bringing 5-6 oz of brewing water to a boil and allowing this to cool to at least 100 F • Stir in yeast until mixed and cover. Allow the yeast to rehydrate for approximately 10 minutes • If you are using a liquid culture, you should have “smacked” the pack days in advance (unless working from a vial) • Liquid cultures typically are more “pure” • Carefully selected yeast strains for particular flavors • Ales versus Lagers

20. Aeration • When the wort has cooled sufficiently pour the wort into your plastic fermenter which is half full of cold water • NEVER POUR HOT WORT INTO AN EMPTY GLASS CARBOY! • Top up the wort to the five gallon mark with cool water • Splash the cool water vigorously while adding it to the wort • Affix the lid and rock the bucket vigorously to both mix the wort and to further aerate it • Aerating the cooled wort allows oxygen to dissolve into the beer and gives the yeast the necessary nutrient for growth • NEVER SPLASH AROUND HOT WORT! • Aeration while the wort is hot leads to oxidation and will give you stale tasting beer • Never splash around already fermented beer; this oxidizes the alcohols and leads to cardboard flavors.

21. Starting Gravity Reading • With a sanitized glass or baster remove a small quantity of wort and fill your hydrometer jar (the tube your hydrometer came in) approximately 3/4 full • Pitch (add) the rehydrated yeast to the fermenter when the temperature of the wort is lower than 80°F and affix the lid and airlock, filling airlock 1/2 full with water • Put the fermenter away in a warm (65 F) area away from direct sunlight • Float your hydrometer in the jar and give it a quick spin to dislodge any trapped air bubbles • Sight across the liquid level at the lowest point and make note of where the hydrometer reads on the S.G. scale

22. Fermentation • You should notice the beginning of fermentation in about 24-48 hours and this will continue for 3 to 7 days depending on the temperature (aim for 60-70 degrees) • After all apparent bubbling has stopped, wait another 3 days and take another specific gravity reading, using a sanitized baster or wine thief, and note the reading • It should be approximately 1/4 of the original gravity. I.e. if you read an original gravity of 1.040 you should be near a final gravity of 1.010 • Wait another two days and take a third reading • If the last two readings are the same then it is time to bottle • If you didn't take an initial gravity reading don't worry; take the second and third readings and just make certain that they are not changing

23. Racking (Siphoning) • If you have the equipment, towards the end of the primary fermentation it is beneficial to siphon the beer to another container • Siphoning helps clarification (chemical aids can be used as well, but are unnecessary for producing great beer) • Siphons can be hard to start (do not use your mouth because of “infection” potential) • Use racking cane and hose filled with water • Siphon starters available commercially • Carbon dioxide pressure (requires kegging setup)

24. Bottling – Sanitizing Bottles • Clean and sanitize bottles • If the bottles are anything besides brand-new, it is best to brush them out with the bottle cleaning brush • If they are new, you can simply soak them in a sanitizer • You can use a sink or bathtub but I like to use another 5 gallon plastic bucket • You must also sanitize the bottle caps by soaking them in boiling water (at least 5 minutes)

25. Bottling – Priming • Boil the priming sugar in one pint of water (at least 5 minutes) and add this mixture to bottling bucket • Transfer (rack) beer from fermenter to bottling bucket using the racking tube and siphon hose • Use either the siphon priming method described in your brewing handbook, or a siphon starter to get the siphon going • Be very careful not to aerate the beer at this point • Mix the priming sugar into the beer by gently stirring with the racking cane (siphoning beer will actually do most of the work)

26. Bottling • Connect the tubing to the spigot on the bottling bucket and the bottle filler • Turn on spigot and allow beer to flow through spigot and hose into bottle filler • Use Filler to fill bottles to about 1” from top • Place a cap on top of each bottle as they are filled and continue until all bottles have been filled • Go back and cap each bottle in the order they were filled • Delayed capping allows the dissolved CO2 to purge the headspace of any oxygen

27. Aging • This priming sugar added at bottling time will result in a secondary fermentation in the bottles which produces the carbonation • The beer should be left in an area away from direct sunlight where the temperature is between 68-75 F to ensure complete carbonation • After seven days, give each bottle a twist to dislodge any yeast which may be clinging to the sides of the bottles • The beer will be best after allowing it to age for a month or so • So at this point go ahead and enjoy • Remember to save a few bottles for comparison against the later batches

28. Adjustments • Now is the time to decide what changes to make to the recipe for your second batch • While tasting your beer take good notes about what you think of the bitterness level, hop flavor, color, maltiness, etc. • After a while you will start to get a feel for what each ingredient adds to the beer • This is where the real fun comes from, adjusting the recipe to your tastes

29. About BEWBC • BEWBC began in 1972 strictly as a wine making club. In the mid-80's the club began to offer a wide variety of beer making supplies and many members began to join the club to brew better beer. • We currently offer a variety of both wine and beer events, classes, and social activities. The monthly meetings, which usually alternate between wine and beer, typically include a presentation by a knowledgeable guest speaker. By sharing experiences and sampling each others creations we all enhance our skill and knowledge in this ancient art.

30. Club Activities • Seminars and Speakers -Wine and beer experts of recognized standing discuss subjects of general interest. • Wine Competition - Extensive varieties of wine made by members are judged by experts. • Homebrew Competition - Beers made by members are professionally judged. - Picnic and fun. • Wine and Beer Making Courses - Classes offered to Club members and spouses • Club Store - Stocks a wide variety of wine and beer making supplies and equipment at substantial savings. • Club Equipment - Free use of equipment used in wine and beer making • Monthly Newsletter - Features entertaining and educational articles on winemaking and homebrewing • Library - A large collection of wine and beer books and magazines is available for loan to members • Grapes - Cooperative grape purchases at favorable prices on Washington, Oregon, and California grapes

31. Joining • Contact: Al Cutshall • Work Phone (206) 655-0645 • E-MAIL alden.d.cutshall@boeing.com • Annual dues (prorated quarterly) • Employees $30.00 • Retirees $20.00 • Website (membership forms available on web): • http://www.bewbc.org

32. Final Words • Join the club and join the forum! • If you need help, contact a club member or talk to the people in your brewing supply store • Beer is the best repayment • Grab a kit, a book, and a recipe: the rest will come over time • Be patient • Be clean • Have fun • Brew what you like, not what someone says you should • Keep good records for later use • If a batch goes bad, wait, or use it for cooking! • Relax, don’t worry, have a homebrew

33. Questions

34. Standard Questions • My beer fermented for only 1 day. Is something wrong? • No, everything is fine. Fermentation can take anywhere from 24 hours to 10 days depending on yeast strain and temperature. • I didn't see any bubbling in the airlock!?! • Don't worry yet. Pop open the lid and look for signs of foam on top of the beer or a decent sized scum ring around the bucket above the level of the beer. If you see either of these the beer is fine; the lid simply wasn't seated down tight enough. • My beer did _____ should I dump it out? • No, no, no. Always taste your beer before passing judgement. Also, give it at least several months before totally giving up on a problem beer. Many off characteristics age away into beautiful beers. • In the worst case, bad beer makes a great replacement for water when cooking