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I m p a c t o f w i n d o n n a v i g a t i o n. # W i n d w a v e . . .
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#Windwave... In fluid dynamics, wind and waves, or more accurately, and wind energy to generate waves of surface waves that occur on the free surface of oceans, seas, lakes, rivers and canals or even on small ponds and basins. They usually result from wind blowing over a sufficiently wide range of the liquid surface. . Can be in the ocean waves travel thousands of miles before it reaches the ground. Waves ranging in size from small ripples to huge waves of more than 30 meters. When it is created directly and affected by local wind and sea wave is called the wind the wind. . After the wind stopped blowing, and called the airwaves swell. Or, more generally, which is composed of waves of inflation, the wind, which had not been established or barely affected by the local wind at the time. She was born elsewhere, or for some time. . Called wind waves in the ocean waves of the ocean surface
Tsunami is a particular type of wave by wind but by geological effects. In deep water, tsunamis are not visible because they are small in height and very long wavelength. . May grow to devastating proportions on the coast due to the depth of water is low.
#Waveform... The vast majority of large breakers one observes on the beach by the wind away. Five factors that affect the formation of waves in the wind: * Wind speed * Distance from the open water in the wind more than (called fetch) * Width of the region affected by fetch * One time in the wind over a particular area * Depth of the water All these factors work together to determine the size of wind waves. . Greater than all the variables, the largest waves. : Waves are characterized by: * Wave height (from bottom to top) * Wavelength (from the top to the top) * Wave period (the time interval between the arrival of successive peaks at a fixed point) * The spread of the wave direction
Waves in a given area is usually a range of heights. . For reporting on the weather and the scientific analysis of the statistics of wind wave, and usually are expressed in distinct height over a period of time and height of a big wave. . This figure represents the average height of highest one third waves in a specific time period (usually somewhere in the selection of a set of 20 minutes to twelve hours), or in a specific wave or storm system. Given the varying height of the waves, the largest individual waves are likely to be about twice the reported significant wave height for a particular day or storm.
Types of waves,wind Three different types of waves evolve over time: * Capillary waves or ripples . * Sea . * Swells . Water ripples appear smooth when the wind blows, but will die quickly if the wind stops. Restore the power that allows them to deploy and surface tension. Sea is the largest in size, and applications that are often not under the regular winds. They tend to last longer, even after the wind had died, and the restoration of the power that allows them to continue and gravity. . He also published the sea away from their places of origin, and they naturally separate according to their direction and wavelength. It is known that the wave normal movements, which was formed in this way and swells.
Individual "rogue waves also called "freak waves," "monster waves” "killer waves" and "King of the waves” much higher than the other waves in the sea state can occur. . In the case of a wave, and had a 25-meter (82 feet) high 2.2 times the height of a big wave. .These waves differ from the tides, caused by the moon and one's attractiveness, the tsunami caused by water, earthquakes or landslides, and waves generated by underwater eruptions or meteor impacts for all and a longer waves waves from the wind. So far, the largest ever recorded waves are common and not rogue waves of the sea in the extremist states. For example: 29.1 meters (95 feet) high waves recorded on the discovery of RRS. In the sea with a 18.5 m (61 ft) wave height of a large, so the wave is only 1.6 times higher for the large wave height
BreakingWave For some waves undergo a phenomenon called "broken". And a wave to break the rule is no longer able to support the top, causing it to collapse. Wave breaks when run in shallow water, or when a wave systems oppose and combine forces at the slope, or rate of decline, the wave is very large, and the break is inevitable. And identified three main types of breaking waves that surfers or surf lifesavers. Their different characteristics make them more or less suitable for surfing, and the various risks present.
# Leak or rolling: these are the safest on the waves to surf. . And can be found in most areas with relatively flat beaches. Are the most common type of shore break #. Sink, or dumping: these break suddenly, and can "dump" swimmers, pushing them down with great force. . This is the preferred waves for surfers with experience. Winds can be strong abroad, and long periods may cause a wave of trucks. There are, in many cases when there is a sudden increase in the bottom of the sea, such as sand or sidewalks. # Height:may never break the truth as they approach the water's edge, and very deep water underneath. They tend to form on steep beaches. These waves can knock swimmers and pulled on again in deep water.
#Flag waves . . . Wind waves, mechanical waves, which spread along the interface between water and air, and provided the force restore by gravity, and so often referred to as gravitational waves. . As thewind is blowing, pressure and friction forces to disrupt the balance of the surface of the water. This energy transfer forces from the air into the water, the waves formed. ] Described the initial formation of wind waves in the theory of Phillips in 1957, and was similar to the subsequent growth of the small waves Miles, and also in 1957.
For shallow, medium, and the equations are applicable, and the combination of frequency dispersion and nonlinear effects. In very shallow water, and in the shallow water equations can be used. It also increases the depth below the surface of the free, half the diameter of the circular motion decreases. . At a depth equal to half the wavelength λ, the movement of tropical and decayed to less than 5% of its value on the surface. And speed of disposal of surface waves (also called speed is approximated well) by C= speed stage; λ= wavelength; D = depth of water; G = acceleration of gravity On the surface of the earth.
In deep water, where , So, The deterministic approach shadow 1, c the speed, in m / s, approaching .. When measured in meters λ. This expression tells us that waves of different wavelengths at different speeds. . Waves in a storm are faster with a longer wavelength. As a result, after the storm, the waves arrived first on the coast are the long-wavelength swells. When several wave trains are present, as is always the case in nature, and the waves of the form sets. In deep water the groups travel at the speed of the group that is half the speed of the stage. After one wave in one group can see the wave appear in the back of the team, growing and eventually disappear in the front part of the group.
Can capture the movement of wind waves by wave energy devices the energy density (per unit area) of regular sinusoidal waves depends on the water density ρ, and gravitational acceleration g and the wave height H (which, for normal waves, and twice the amplitude, a
Wind wavemodels Main article: Wind wave model Surfers are very interested in the wave of expectations. . There are many sites that offer the quality of predictions of waves in the coming days and weeks. Models are driven by the wind, which generally wave climate models that predict the wind and pressure on the seas and oceans and lakes. Wind wave models are also an important part of studying the impact of shore protection and beach nourishment proposals. Many areas of the beach there is only fragmentary information about the wave climate, and thus estimate the effect of wind waves is important for the management of coastal environments.
