Garments Construction Standards 服装制作标准 Contents 目录 Section 1: - Components and trims 成分和辅料

1. Garments Construction Standards 服装制作标准 Contents 目录 Section 1: - Components and trims 成分和辅料 ·Fabric面料 ·Interlinings粘衬 ·Internal trims内部辅料 ·Linings里布 ·Threads缝纫线 ·Zips拉练 ·Buttons纽扣 ·Fastenings, rivets and studs扣合件，铆钉和工字扣 ·Trims, belts and motifs饰边，腰绳和花边 ·Elastication橡筋 ·Accessories服饰配件 Section 2: - Manufacturing guidelines生产指导 ·Garments衣服 ·Accessories服饰配件 Section 3: - Presentation guidelines外观指导 ·Pressing熨烫 ·Finished Goods整理 ·Labels标牌 ·Packing包装 Section 4: - Safety安全性 ·Garments衣服 ·Accessories服饰配件 ·Replacement Needle Procedure断针纪录 ·Good Housekeeping Guide良好的管理指导 • Section 5: - Children‘s Safety Requirements童装安全性要求 • ·Fabric / Materials面料 / 原料 • ·Components成分 • ·Design Aspects设计外观 • ·Textile Accessories纺织辅料 • ·Metal Content金属物料 • ·Toxicity毒性 • ·Nickel镍 • Lab Test测试

2. Internal trim内部装饰 For menswear Poly/cotton woven pocketing must be used. 必须用涤/棉梭织物做男装口袋布。 Lining里料 ·For padded garments the lining must be quilted or stitched at appropriate intervals to prevent the padding from falling. Padding must not escape through the weave of the outer fabric of the inner lining. 对于有填充物的衣服，里料必须衍缝或加缝适当间距的缉线防止填充物陷落。填充物不能透出里布面料。 ·Lining must not be visible beyond the hemline of cuffs of a garment. The lining must finish 2.5 cm(1inch)above the hem, and cover the hem stitching. 里料不能吐露服装下摆及克夫。必须在摆上2.5CM(1英寸)处修光边且遮盖下摆缝迹。 The fibres used in the lining must be stated on the care lab 里布面料成分必须注明在洗标上。 Sewing thread 缝纫线 ·Must be a good colour match unless intended as a contrast. 必须良好配色除非设计成撞色。 ·Must be colourfast to washing and light. 在 洗涤及光照下不能褪色。 ·100% Polyester thread must be used on products with low flammability requirements. 要求必须用低燃点的100%聚脂纤维缝纫线。 ·Bulk thread should be used in over-lock loopers when sewing Elastane fabrics. 缝制弹性面料时必须用环状锁边缝纫线迹。 ·Monofilament thread is not acceptable for use at any time. 任何情况下都禁止使用化纤缝线。

3. SECTION 1 COMPONENTS AND TRIMS 第一部分 成分和辅料 The following section gives a summary of the general quality assurance procedures for components trims.  以下部分将列出关于服装部件的一般品质保证程序概要。 All components trims must be suitable for the after care of the garment according to the wash care instructions given. 所有服装部件必须与服装上的洗标所显示的内容相吻合。 Fabric 面料 ·Take care to make sure that all fabrics with raised fibers that produce anap, or fabric that is ‘cut one way’ design, are cut so that separate panels and separate garment pieces run in the same direction. 注意所有拉绒的凸面织物，或设计为以一个方向裁剪的面料，必须以同方向缝制拼片和服装部件。 ·Fabric faults are not acceptable in garments unless they are inherent in the fabric and are agreed at the buying stage. 不接受服装面料上的疵点除非是缘于面料本身固有的问题造成的或疵点在客人接受的范围内。 ·Variations of shading are unacceptable within a garment, or from one garment to another. Garment pieces must be numbered after cutting. 不接受同一件服装上的色差或服装间的缸差。开裁后的服装裁片必须编号防止产生色差。 Interlinings 粘衬 ·Garments showing ‘delamination’ (bubbling), glue marks or strike through caused by interlining are not acceptable. All interlinings must be applied using correct temperatures with fusing machines tested at regular intervals. 不接受由于粘衬导致服装上的分层，起泡，露胶或者穿透。所有的粘衬必须用热熔机械以正确的温度粘贴并且定期测试。

4. Zips 拉链 ·Only zips approved by visage are accepted. 只接受经过维雅公司确认的拉链。 ·    Spring lock or auto lock zips must be used. Auto lock zips are preferred. Pintuck zips are not acceptable. 必须用弹簧锁或自动锁头拉练。首选用自动锁头拉练。不能用大头针拉练。 ·    The base of an open-ended zip must be reinforced where attached to the fabric. The zip slider must not be obstructed. 拉链缝到面料上底端开口处必须加固，上下拉动拉链时不能有生涩的感觉。 ·    The tops of the zips should be secured with a top zip stop where necessary. No sharp edges should protrude at the top. All surplus zip teeth should be removed. 拉链顶端需要处必须有齿止安全保护。顶端不能有突出的锋利边缘，多余的拉齿必须剪掉。 There must be no sharp edges exposed at the bottom of the zip tape. These must be trimmed back or if possible enclosed in the hem fabric. All metal parts must be removed. 拉链码带底部不能留有锋利的边缘，反面必须修光，如果缝于下摆上，所有的金属部分必须清除。 Buttons 纽扣 ·All garments must carry a spare button of each ligne used. There must be 2 spare buttons if the garment has 10 buttons or more. 所有的服装上每个款式的纽扣必须留有一颗备纽，若服装上有十颗或者更多此款纽扣，必须留有两颗备钮。 ·Buttons must be securely attached using a lockstitch machine. 纽扣必须用双线缝纫钉扣机缝钉牢固。 ·Metal components must be nickel free. 金属成分中不能含镍。 ·Non- toxic buttons must be used. 纽扣必须无毒性。 ·Buttons used on childrenswear must not be two-part. 童装上的纽扣不能是可以分成两个部分的类型。 ·Buttons used on childrenswear must not represent any form of food substance. 童装上的纽扣不能有任何和食物主旨相关的图案。

5. Fastenings, poppers, and studs 扣合件，铐纽和工字扣 ·Fastening must be securely attached to the garment without causing damage to the fabric of the fastener itself. There must be no sharp edges 扣合件必须安全牢固得缝制在服装上且不能由于扣合件本身导致面料破损，不能有尖锐的边缘。 ·Metal fasteners and components must not rust after washing. 金属扣合件和辅料水洗后不能生锈。 ·Post fasteners must not be used on woven fabrics and prongs on knitted fabrics. 扣合件中的纽柱不能用于梭织面料，不能叉在针织面料上。 ·The length of the post or prong must be appropriate for the fabric thickness. 纽柱的长度或裆叉必须适合面料的厚度。 ·Lightweight knitted fabrics may require interlining to prevent laddering. 薄型针织面料可能需要夹层防止抽丝。 ·All garments with fastenings must be opened and closed during inspection. 所有用扣合件的服装在检查时必须查核扣合件的开闭情况。 ·All fastenings must meet customers pull test regulations. 所有扣合件必须经过客人的拉力测试规则。 ·Record of pull testing should be kept for 1 year. 拉力测试记录应当保持一年。 Belts, trims and motifs 腰带，饰边和花边 ·If detachable trims e.g. belts, are not washable, this must shown on the sewn-in care label. 可脱卸的装饰物例如腰带等，若不可水洗，必须在洗标上注明。 ·If motifs prints and trims can’t be ironed, this must be shown on the sewn-in label. 若装饰物或印花不可熨烫，必须在洗标上注明。 ·There must be backing on fabric of washable belts. 可水洗的绳带必须在面料上打回针牢固。 Elastication橡筋 ·Stitching must not crack. 缝制时不能断裂。 ·The join of the elastic must be secured by double stitching to at least 2cm. 接缝橡筋时必须安全双缝牢固至少2公分左右。 ·Elastic should be attached in a way that prevents twisting or rolling. Any fullness must be distributed evenly. 缝制橡筋时必须采取不能产生卷翘起伏现象的方法，任何富余量必须均匀分布。 Accessories 服饰配件 ·All attachments and finishes must be free from rust, tarnish and sharp edges. 所有配件饰物必须不能生锈，失去光泽或有尖锐边缘。 ·Belts must always be fastened in the center hole. 腰绳必须在孔管中固定。 ·Belts should always be kimbal attached to garment for security. 腰绳必须系扎在服装上以防安全。

6. SECTION 2 MANUFACTURING GUIDELINES 第二部分 生产指导 Garments 衣服 ·The way garments are cut; put together and finished will influence their appearance and durability due to the garments being worn often. 服装裁剪时，面料必须放在一起且同时完成影响外观的整理及经常穿着所需的耐磨处理。 ·All excess threads must be trimmed and removed from the garment. 服装上的浮线必须清理修剪干净。 ·Stitching must be correctly spaced and tensioned to make sure there is no seam grinning, but the seam must stretch in relation to the fabric properties. Do not use lock stitch on stretch fabrics.We recommend 10 to 12 stitches in every 2.5cm of woven fabrics, but the seam must stretch in relation to the fabric properties. 缝纫必须有适当的间距和松紧度防止爆口，同时应根据面料特性适当具有弹性。不要用锁式线迹缝纫弹性面料。对于梭织面料推荐每2.5公分10-12针，但缝纫应根据面料特性具有弹性。 ·All visible raw edges of woven fabrics must be overlocked or neatened. 面料上所有可见毛边必须锁边或清理干净。 ·A single thread chain stitch is not acceptable. 不接受单线链式缝迹。 ·All back rise seams should be two-thread chain stitch or double row lock stitch. 所有后档缝应当用双针链式缝迹或双行锁式线迹。 ·All neck closure seams should be 1cm past the shoulder seam towards the back of the garment. 所有颈缝末段处应当在服装背面向后过肩缝1公分。 ·The edges of quilted garment parts must be stitched before the parts are assembled. 对于有填充物的衍缝服装部件，在组合前必须先缉边缝。 ·Felting should be latched off with no run back of loose ends. 毡毯类织物必须锁边防止脱散。 ·To prevent Elastane runback and needle damage on Elastane blend fabrics, we recommend you use ballpoint needles. 为了防止橡筋缝在面料上时脱散以及受缝纫针损伤，推荐用圆头针缝纫。 ·Shoulder tape must be used for knitwear and jerseywear. 针织物和毛衫类必须有肩带。

7. ·All pockets, sleeves cuffs and collar points must be paired. 所有口袋，袖克夫和领尖必须是成双的。 ·All stress points (e.g. belt loops, crotch seams, etc.) must be adequately reinforced. 所有的受力点，例如腰袢，裆缝处等必须充分加固。 ·Buttonholes must be lock stitched and they must have sufficient stitch density to avoid fraying. For jeans and trousers use gimp thread in buttonholes 纽孔必须锁边并且针脚密度足够防止散边。对于牛仔和裤装要求用辫式锁眼。 ·On pocket top corners must be adequately reinforced either by triangle tack or bar tack. 口袋上角必须用三角针或打套结充分加固。 ·On jeans the placket / fly area should be faced or double fabric thickness. 牛仔服装上/下门襟处必须贴面或双层厚度本布面料。 Wovens must also be fused. There must be at least one bar-tack to reinforce the bottom of the placket. The fly facing or shield should be tapered and reinforced with tacking or fabric tape. The zip should be sturdy enough for the garment fabric and adequate length to easily put on the jeans. The zippers for the jeans must have a lock feature. 梭织物同样需要如此保险，门襟底部需要至少一个套结加固。裤门襟贴片或腋下贴片必须是锥形的并且打套结或用本布带加固。拉链相对于服装面料必须有足够强度且长度适当方便牛仔穿脱。牛仔上的拉链必须有锁头特征。 That is that the zip puller should remain at the top when stress is applied. 对拉链施力时拉链头不能脱出。 ·Also on jeans flat fell seams double or triple stitching provides flat, firm enclosed seams. These must be smoothly constructed. This seam construction encases the seam allowance so there is no raveling during wearing or washing. If seams are not fell flat, you must ensure seams are serged (overcast) to cover the raw edges and thus prevent raveling. 对于牛仔衣物需要用双线或三线外包缝的线迹保证止口平直牢固。拼接平稳滑顺。拼接缝包围住缝头不至于穿着或水洗时脱散。如果接缝不是外包边，必须确保缝头锁边并遮住毛边防止散边。 Stitch/ seam types 缉线/拼缝类型 ·Lock stitch 锁式缝迹 Used for topstitching, French seams, attaching trims and components, lining, collar and cuff seams. 用于辑明线，来去缝，拼缝辅料和服装组件，里料，领子以及克夫拼缝处。 ·Double lock-chain stitch 双线链式线迹。

8. ·4-thread overlock四线包缝 Used for seams on fleece, light and medium weight wovens and knitwear. 用于起绒织物，轻薄及中等克重梭织物和毛衫类拼缝。 ·5-thread overlock 五线包缝 Used for seams on jeans, medium and heavy weight wovens. 用于牛仔，中等和厚重梭织物拼缝 ·Flatlock 绷缝 Used on jerseywear as a decorative feature. 用于毛衫作为装饰线 ·Coverseam 包边缝 Back neck finish for T-shirt and knitwear. Decorative at hems. 用于T恤及毛衫类后颈折光处以及在下摆处作装饰。 Used for multi-needle elastication 用于多针橡筋。 ·3- thread overlock 三线包缝 Used for seams on T-shirts. 用于T恤拼缝。 Accessories 服饰配件 ·All items must be securely fixed and must work as intended. 所有的配件必须安全牢固得缝制在服装上并保持赋予它的功能。 ·Decorative detailing such as embroidery, contrasting pocket inserts or piping should be evenly and smoothly applied. 装饰细节例如绣花，撞色袋嵌线或包边等缝制必须均匀圆顺。 ·Buttonholes should be functional, clearly cut and stitched closely with no loose threads or exposed edges. 纽孔必须是有功能的，清理干净以及线迹紧密没有松散浮线或暴露边缘的现象。 ·Quality pockets have edges carefully turned and have been placed evenly and securely on the garment. 口袋边缘谨慎翻转并且平坦牢固得缝于衣服上。 ·Lining and pocket fabric should be durable with the edges finished. 里布和口袋布必须折光边并且是可以持久耐用的。 Hems should be even, flat and securely stitched before pressing, as this problem will not press out after customer washes it. 下摆在熨烫前必须均匀平坦且缝制牢固，以保证顾客在清洗衣物后不会产生任何问题。

9. SECTION 3 PRESENTATION GUIDELINES 第三部分 外观指导 ·Pockets should be tack stitch closed on formal garments with a large, loose stitch, unless otherwise specified  正装上的口袋必须用宽松大距的假缝闭口除非有特别要求的除外。 ·Garments should not be creased, crushed or glazed, Impressions must not be visible in any area. 服装不能有折皱，受挤压或产生表面极光。任何部位都不能有压痕。 ·Before packing all garments should be cleared of loose threads, loose fibres and any work tickets. 包装服装前必须清除一切浮线，纤维以及任何工作票据。 ·All garments should be given enough time to dry thoroughly and relax before packing. 所有服装在包装前必须有充分的时间彻底干燥舒缓。 ·Ribs must not be steam pressed. 罗纹组织不能用蒸气熨斗熨烫。 ·Correct size packing card must be used to fit size of garments. 服装包装时必须用正确的尺码标牌。 ·If garments do not fit size of box, suitable packaging is to be used. 如果服装不适合箱形，需要采取适当的折叠方式。 Bags and wrappers are to be BHT free and of micron guage and must be recyclable. 包装袋和包装材料不能含有BHT且按照指定的品质同时必须是环保材质的。 Pressing 整烫 ·Pre pressing - ensure the characteristics of the fabric are assessed. 预烫——确保正确评估面料的特性。 ·Allowances should be made for shrinkage during pressing, in accordance with the relevant lab results. 按照相关的测试结果为整烫面料预留一定的缩量。 ·Presses should be adjusted to avoid glazing, Distortion, colour changes, press creases and damage to fabric. 整烫时适当调节温度防止产生极光，扭曲变形，变色，折痕以及破坏面料。 Hand ironing 手烫 ·Steam and heat are required to press shape. Vacuum Heat (no steam) are required to ‘set’ shape  蒸气和热量用来压烫服装的造型，干烫（无蒸气）用来固定造型。 ·All seams to be pressed consistently in one direction. 所有拼缝必须始终按照一个方向压烫。 ·Open seams must always be pressed open and flat. 开口拼缝处需烫开烫平。 ·All linings must be smooth with no impressions on the lining or outer fabric.The whole garment must be pressed. 所有里料必须平滑且面里料不能有烫痕。整件服装必须是经过熨烫的。

10. Dolly Pressing/Steam Cabinets 垫布烫 / 蒸气柜 ·These must only be used where a satisfactory finish can be achieved on the particular garment and fabric type. 仅用于为达到满意的整理效果的特殊服装和面料。 Flat Beds 烫床 ·Knitted garments must not be stretched in order to achieve the specification. 针织服装不能拉伸以达到相应的尺寸规格。 ·Frames must be used wherever possible to standardize shape. 用框架使服装外形尽可能标准化。 Finished Goods 后整理 ·An examination sequence for each style should be adhered to at all times. 每一个款式服装在任何时候都必须进行程序性的检查。 ·All garments must be given sufficient time to relax and dry thoroughly prior to packing. 包装前所有的服装都必须给予充分的时间闲置并且完全干燥。 ·Garments must be appropriately packed and stored in order to maintain the best possible retail standard. 服装必须适当的包装储藏已达到尽可能最佳的零售状态。 ·The following points should be addressed: 以下几点必须声明： - All garments should act in accordance with British and International Standards. 所有服装生产都必须符合英国和国际上的标准。 - The final garment must comply with Visage specification, in all aspects. 服装最终成品必须在各个方面符合维雅公司的规格单。 - The bulk production should conform to the individual customers seal of approval. 大货必须完全同客人确认的封样。 Labels 商标 ·Labels must be sourced and positioned as specified by Visage and the customer. 商标的供货来源和缝制位置必须按照维雅公司和客人的详细要求。 ·All sew in labels must be neatly and securely attached with all printing clearly visible. 所有商标的缝制必须牢固整洁并且印刷字迹清晰可见。 Garment washed products must be labeled after washing. 水洗服装必须在水洗后缝制商标。 Packing 包装 · Style number and size should be on front of the poly bag. 款号和尺码必须显示于胶袋正面。 · Safety Warning should be the on back of the poly bag. 安全警告语必须显示于胶袋背面。 ·All packing should be as instructed on the purchase orders. 所有包装方式必须按照订单上的指示。

11. SECTION 4 SAFETY REQUIREMENTS 第四部分 安全要求 Garments 服装 ·All necessary precautions must be followed in production to minimise any risk to our customers. You must tell us of any issues that could risk the safety of our customers. 货物必须采取所有可以降低风险的一切措施，使我们的客人将会面临风险的系数降到最低同时必须告知客户 任何会产生安全风险的问题。 ·We expect you to take all possible precautions to make sure that no full or part needle remains in garments. 我们要求供应商采取一切可能的预防措施防止整根或部分断针残留在服装上。 ·You must have a needle replacement policy and system in all your factories. This procedure must be documented and an updated log kept, ready for us to inspect if necessary. Photocopies must be faxed to us monthly. 供应商的所有工厂必须有断针纪录和相关体制。这些程序必须有可证明的文件并定期更新已备我们需要时检查。同时每月应当传真给我们相关复印件。 ·If we find a full or part needle in a garment, this is classified as critical fault and will result in the product being rejected or recalled from stores, resulting in the whole delivery being rejected. 如果在服装上发现一根全针或断针，这会被划分为极其危险的疵点将直接导致拒收货物或取消此批货物。同时还将导致拒收工厂已经在运送途中的货物。 ·All components should be non- toxic. 所有的成分必须是没有毒性的。 ·Do not use staples, this includes all cartons. 不能用钉书针，纸箱上不能有箱钉。 ·Samples must be sent with paperwork signed, this will include measurements and any comments of observation. 寄样衣时必须携带签名文书，其中包括尺寸测量及检查批注。 Accessories 服饰配件 ·There must be no sharp edges that could result in injury to the wearer. 不能有尖锐的边缘可能导致伤害穿着者。

12. Visage Imports 维雅进口货物 Replacement Needle Policy 断针纪录 The following policy applies to all regions within the factory, including the sample room; it applies to ALL garments produced for Visage. 以下方针适用于工厂的任何区域，包括样衣间。同时适用于为维雅公司制造的所有服装。 A needle free environment must be achieved, all needles in use and in storage must be controlled and accounted for; this includes hand sewing, machine sewing, tag guns or for knitting. 必须达到无针环境，所有正在使用或备用的针具都必须受管制并且是可以说明用途的。这包括手缝针，机缝针， 枪针或用于编织的针具。 ·Factory operatives must never be in possession of any spare needles. Only a supervisor or authorised person can distribute spare needles in exchange for broken or blunt ones. 工厂中的操作者不能有备用针，只有监督或管理人员能够分发备用针，用来替换断针或钝化的针。 ·New needles must be stored in a safe place, preferably under lock and key, new needles will only be issued on a one for one basis after all pieces of the old one have been found  新针必须贮藏在安全处，最好是带锁的地方。发放新针时必须在找到原有旧针所有部分的基础上一根替换一根。 ·If all parts of a broken needle can’t be found, then the bundles / garments on which the operative is working must be removed away from the line and passed through a metal detector. 如果没有找到断针的全部部分，那么拥有断针的操作者处理的所有成品或半成品服装必须移开生产流水线并且通过金属探测仪器。 ·If the factory does not have a metal detector, a magnet or hand held metal detector may be used to find the broken needle parts. 如果工厂没有金属探测仪器，那么就用磁铁或手持探测物找到断裂部分的针具。 ·All suspect garments must be re-inspected carefully until every garment is accounted for. If any parts are still missing the entire garment(s) are to be disposed of safely. 所有令人怀疑的服装必须仔细得重新检查，直至每一件服装都确信没有断针隐患。如果断针始终没有被发现，那么这些衣物将需要采取安全措施。 ·Needle fragments are to be taped together in a “broken needle record sheet”, with the date, operative, if all parts are found and, if not, what action was taken and the supervisors signature. 断针碎片需要纪录备案在《断针记录报告》上，并纪录日期，操作者，是否找到全部断裂部分，如果没有，必须记录采取了何种措施以及监督者的签名。 ·Blunt / old needles must never be disposed of in waste bins or on the factory floor; they should be placed in a sealed, marked container which is kept well away from the production area, trimming store or mechanics workshops are ideal. 钝化 / 老旧的针决不能随意处置，废弃在柜子或工厂内的室内场地上。它们必须被放置在密封的标有显著记号的容器内，并且远离生产区域。废弃物储藏室或机械车间都是理想的选择地点。 ·Suppliers are responsible for ensuring that this policy is applied to all areas of the factory, including the sample room, embroidery and appliqué. 供应商有负责确认工厂的任何区域都必须采取这项措施，包括打样间，绣花间及贴花间。 Machines not in use must have the needle in the down position in a scrap of fabric. 缝纫机不用时必须放下针处于低位并插在小块布片上。

13. Pins 大头针 ·Pins must not be used in any part of the factory. This includes the sample rooms, cutting, make-up, inspection of packing area or any other areas where garments/components are handled. 工厂的任何车间都不能用大头针。其中包括样衣间、裁剪间、缝制间、检查包装间或任何处理成衣/ 部件的区域。 ·Suppliers are responsible for ensuring that this policy is applied to embroidery, appliqué and printing operations whether in-house or on another site. 供应商有责任确保这项措施适用于绣花，贴花以及印花操作处，无论这些程序是在厂房内进行或其它地点进行。 ·Any trims e.g. elastic and bindings, which arrive with pins securing the ends, are to have the pins removed immediately and replaced with tape. 任何辅料例如橡筋，包边带等，在尾端处用大头针定位时，必须立刻移除并用绳带代替。 Hand Sewing and knit Needles 手缝针和编织针 ·Hand sewing labels are to be held by the supervisor or other authorised responsible person, needles should be issued and signed for at the beginning of each working period, at the end of each working period they should be returned to person responsible and signed as returned. 手缝标签必须由监督者或者其它被授予责任的相关人员全权负责。每次开工前责任人发放手缝针并让接受者签名，工作结束后，返还责任人同时签名。 ·Hand sewing needles are not allowed in the production area, a quarantine area must be provided for the use of sewing needles. 手缝针不允许出现在大货生产区域，必须为手缝针使用者提供隔离区域。 ·Any garments that needs repairs due to the washing processes should be repaired by machine, as this will give a more consistent and stronger finish than by hand. 任何由于水洗程序产生损害而需要返修的服装必须用机械修整。因为这样比使用手缝针返修缝合得更和谐牢固。 ·Knit needles for repairs must be inserted into a wooden holder with a cord attached, this can then be attached to the table. 用于修补的编织针必须插在木制的容器中并用绳线捆绑，容器外贴上标签。 ·In the event of a needle going missing all garments in the area must be checked with a metal detector, if it is not found the whole area is to be checked with a magnet and a hand held metal detector. 如果在操作处发生丢失针的情况，所有该区域中的衣物都必须经过金属探测机，若没有找到，全部区域必须用磁铁或手执式金属探测器检测。 Staples, Paper Clips and Scissors 钉书针，纸夹和剪刀 ·Staples are not to be used on the factory floor. 工厂厂房内不能有钉书针。 ·Any document for use in production areas should have the staples removed. 生产区域中任何文件上的钉书针都必须移除。 ·Staples should not be used on patterns in production areas. 生产区域中任何图案文件上不能用钉书针。

14. ·Metal paper clips are not to be used in production areas. 生产区域中不能有金属纸夹。 ·Thread clippers / small scissors for use by sewing operators should be attached to the machine. 缝纫工使用的剪刀必须捆绑在缝纫机上。 ·Thread clippers for use by thread trimmers should be attached to the trimming table. 修剪清理工使用的减线头剪刀必须捆绑在清理台上。 Sewing Accessories, Machine Parts and Screw Drivers 缝纫附件， 机械零件和螺丝起子工具 ·Thread unpickers should be attached to the sewing machine. 拆线器必须附在缝纫机上。 ·Tweezers (for threading of overlocking machines) should be attached to the sewing machine. 钳子（拷边机上）必须附在机械上。 ·Mechanics should ensure that all machine parts (e.g. nuts, screws, springs etc.) are either replaced or completely removed from the machine. Particular attention should be paid to removing used buttonhole blades. 机械工必须确认机械上的所有的零部件（例如螺母，螺杆，弹簧等）或在原位或被完全移除。尤其应注意移开切纽孔刀片。 ·Spare presser feet, folders & other machine attachments should be stored away from the machine - ideally in the mechanics office. 备用的压脚，折叠器和其它机械附件必须远离机械贮藏。理想的地点是机械专用室。 ·Screwdrivers for use when changing sewing needles should be stored in a safe place with the needles. They should be issued by the supervisor with a new needle and returned by the operator when the needle has been changed. 替换机缝针时用的螺丝起子必须同机缝针一起包存在安全的地方。由管理者同新换的缝纫针一起发放，操作者完成换针后必须返还予管理者。 All mechanics should be issued with a lockable toolbox. All tools should be stored in this box when not in use. 所有的机械工必须装配在一个带锁的工具箱，所有的工具不被使用时必须放在工具箱内。 Metal Detectors 金属探测器 ·Metal detectors are seen as an aid to prevent metal contamination, they are not however recommended as the sole means of preventing metal contamination  金属探测器被视为防止金属污染的辅助工具。但并不推荐为唯一的防止金属污染的方法。 ·The metal detector itself must be tested at least once a day and the results recorded. 每日必须至少检查一次金属探测器本身并记录结果。 ·Any garment, which fails to pass through the metal detection stage, must be set aside and thoroughly checked for metal contamination. If the source of the contamination is not found then the garment must be destroyed. 任何没有通过金属探测标准的服装都必须摆放在一边并彻底检查金属污染物，若始终未发现金属污染源，此件服装必须被销毁。

15. Toxicity 毒性 ·In order to achieve the desired appearance and effect many materials and components incorporate pigments, colourants, and lacquers or coatings. Where used they must comply with Toy Safety Standard BS EN 71: Part 3 : 1995. Concerning the Migration of Certain Toxic Elements. 为了达到期望的外观和效果，许多种原料和组件需要混合染色，着色，染色，漆色或涂层。运用在服装部件上的这些燃料必须符合玩具安全标准。（详细见1995年颁布的第三部分71条关于毒性转移原理的安全标准）。 ·Fabrics must not contain heavy metals that migrate beyond the limits specified in this standard. 面料中不能含有超出此标准中指定限制的重金属物质。 ·Dyestuffs can be toxic and cause harmful effects to humans. The EU publish a list of dyestuffs known to be harmful to humans. Such dyestuffs must not be used on any textile materials destined for Visage products. 染料中的毒性会伤害人体。英方出版过一份关于目前所知会伤害人体的染料的清单。清单中所列举的这些染料不能用于任何出口至维雅公司的货物中。 ·It is the supplier’s responsibility to keep abreast of any new developments on Toxicity. Garment makers must communicate the EU list to their fabric suppliers who, where relevant, must communicate to their fabric processors. 供应商有责任继续追踪关于毒性方面的进一步研究发现。服装制造商必须和他们的相关面料供应商及处理面料的厂方很好的沟通关于这份毒性清单的内容。 ·Fabrics and garment components can contain elements, which are toxic. Where such fabrics and components are used they must comply with the migration limits of the Toy Safety Standards BS EN: Part 3: 1995. 面料及服装各组成部分的成分有可能含有毒性。运用这些面辅料时必须遵守安全标准。 ·Fabrics for Visage merchandise must not contain heavy metals, which migrate beyond the limits specified in the above standard. 用于维雅公司货物的面料中不能含有超出安全标准的重金属物质。 ·Fabric Suppliers must obtain a certificate from their fabric processors that the dyestuffs and chemicals used conform to the customers individual Environmental and Customer Health Code of Practice for Dyeing, Printing and Finishing. Dyestuffs, which are known to be harmful to humans, must not be used in fabrics supplied to Visage. 面料供应商必须从他们的面料处理厂家获得相关证明书以显示所用染料和化学药剂完全遵守客人关于染色，印花及整理对于环境影响和人体健康的标准。对人体有伤害的染料不能提供给维雅公司。 It is the Fabric Suppliers responsibility to keep abreast of any new developments on Toxicity and to communicate, where relevant, this information to their fabric processors. 面料供应商有责任继续追踪关于毒性的新的研究发现并把最新的信息传递给相关的面料处理厂家。

16. Nickel 镍 The Directive 指示 Nickel is the most frequent cause of contact allergy leading to dermatitis / eczema. The following European legislation has been introduced:- S.I. No 1668 The dangerous Substances Preparations (Nickel) (Safety) Regulations 2000. 镍是引起接触性过敏导致皮疹和湿疹最频繁的原因。 Which products are affected? 那些产品受其影响？ All metal products (coated or non-coated) that have ‘prolonged contact with the skin. These items may include, rivets / studs on jeans, belt and direct’ buckles etc. etc. For such products compliance with the Nickel Directive is mandatory. 所有的间接性接触皮肤的金属制品（涂层或不涂层）。其中包括用于牛仔上的汽眼，工字扣，腰带和裆扣等等。 这类物品必须强制性得按照并符合有关镍含量的文件指示。 The level of nickel permitted by the directive 文件指示中关于镍的允许含量 The directive stipulates that when items are in direct and prolonged contact with the skin, and following a period of two years normal wear (as specified in EN 12472:1998) the maximum permitted release of nickel must not exceed 0.5 micrograms /square cm/week 按照文件规定，所有直接或间接接触皮肤的物品按照两年的正常穿着来记最大允许含镍量为：不得超过每周每平 方厘米0.5毫克的释放量。 Test Methods to assess the presence of nickel (content & release) 评估镍（含量和释放量）的测试方法 ·Non- Destructive screening test (pr EN 12471: 1998) This is a portable kit & used as a tool for a ‘front line,’ in house indicator of clear failures. 非破坏性屏障测试。由一个轻便的手提箱作为一个遮挡工具的室内测试方法。 ·Nickel release ‘Elusion Reference Method’ (BS EN 1811:1999) 避开镍释放的参考方法 This is the highest standard of testing which identify component, part release. If the item to be tested is coated (painted, lacquered etc.) it will be subjected to a corrosive abrasion test (BS EN 12742:1998) 这是确认成分组成部件中镍释放的最高测试标准。如果测试物有涂层（着色着漆等）将隶属于腐蚀磨损测试。 A recognized test house must perform this test e.g. UKAS or HOKLAS accredited. 公认验证测试： UKAS 或HOKLAS

17. GOOD HOUSEKEEPING PRACTICES 良好的管理条例 CUT WORK 裁剪工作 ·Check shelving weekly for rough edges and damages. 每周检查裁剪架有无毛边或损坏。 ·Bundle tables to be checked weekly for rough edges and splinters. 每周检查捆扎台有无毛边和碎片。 INLINE 中期 ·When every new style is introduced to the line, a machine inspection must take place to ensure there are no sharp or rough edges, and that the general cleanliness of the equipment is acceptable. 当一个新的款式进行生产时，必须检查机械确保没有锐缘或毛边并进行普通的设备清理。 ·All sewing needles must be changed at an acceptable frequency according to fabric being used. 所有的缝纫针必须按照面料的特性定期更换。 ·There must be no unused, loose labels lying around on machines, all excess labels must be taken away from the sewing area. 缝纫机周围不能有无用处松散的标签，所有多余的标签必须移开缝纫的区域。 ·At the end of every working day, sewing machines must have a piece of scrap fabric placed under the pressure foot, to prevent any oil contamination. 每日工作完毕后，缝纫机压脚下必须垫一块碎布防止机油污染。 ·All extensions fitted to machines must be done so in a professional manner, with all exposed corners rounded off. 所有缝纫机的外围边缘需符合操作者的工作习惯并不能有尖锐的角缘。 ·Garments for repair must be dealt with promptly and not hung on cotton stands. 需要返修的服装必须处理适当且不能挂在人台上。 ·All sewing equipment leaving the production lines must be cleaned down, free of all trims, i.e. threads, zip sliders, buttons etc, and sewn off onto a piece of scrap cloth. 所有的缝纫设备不用于大货生产流水线时，必须清理干净且移开所有辅料包括缝纫线，拉链，纽扣等等并在压脚上垫一块碎布。

18. PRESSING 压烫 ·All pressing units must be kept clean and tidy. 所有压烫物必须保持干净和整洁。 ·Teflon shoes on irons must be checked on a weekly for wear and tear. 每周必须检查熨斗的磨损情况。 ·Sole plates on irons must be cleaned on a monthly basis. 熨斗必须每月进行基本清理。 ·Nylon mesh coverings on ironing tables must have their edges sealed by overlocking or binding, this will prevent snagging. 熨烫台上的尼龙网眼必须锁边或包边防止其受阻碍。 EXAMINATION 检查 ·Lux level of lighting should be checked twice annually, with lighting tubes changed when necessary. 每年两次检查灯光中的Lux含量，需要时更换光管。 ·Examination areas to be kept clean and tidy at all times. 检查区域必须一直保持干净整洁。 ·All repairs to be cleared promptly. 所有返修品必须快速清理。 DISPATCH 分配 ·All dispatch areas must be kept clean and tidy. 所有分配区域必须保持干净整洁。 ·All products waiting to be dispatched must be clearly marked up. 所有等待分配装箱的大货必须标记明确。 MISCELLANEOUS 混杂 ·General housekeeping should be ongoing at all times. 任何时候都应当有良好的生产管理。 ·Handling systems must be cleaned on a regular basis, with consideration being given when production changes from dark to light fabric and vise versa. 考虑到当货物从深色面料转换至浅色面料或相反的情况，生产流水线必须按照基本常规清理干净。

19. SECTION 5 CHILDRENSWEAR SAFETY REQUIREMENTS 第五部分 童装安全须知 • Introduction 介绍 • The safety of Visage products is paramount, no matter what the product is, nor who the • customer may be! • 不论是什么货物或哪位客人的货物，安全性是维雅公司货物中至关重要的部分。 • One of the areas of the business, which is most sensitive to safety issues, is, of course, • Childrenswear. • 所有这些商业订单中，童装无疑是涉及安全问题最敏感的。 • Avoided or minimised. This can be best achieved by careful consideration of all factors • which impact on the safety of our products whether they are components, design or • manufacturing related. • 为最好的避免或使风险最小化，需仔细考虑所有影响产品安全性的所有因素，无论是与之相关的成分，设计元 • 素或生产部分。 •  This document covers key requirements and considerations affecting Childrenswear, but it • does not pretend to be exhaustive. All suppliers are expected carry out rigorous • assessments of their products to identify potential risk. Those, for which there are doubts • should be raised and discussed with the relevant Visage Buyer and Quality Personnel. • 此文件覆盖了关键的必须要求以及关于童装安全考虑事项，但并不代表它是详尽的。所有的供应商必须严格评 • 估他们的产品确认有无安全隐患。所有疑问处必须提出并和维雅买手以及质检人员讨论。 •  When selecting and sourcing materials, components and garment manufacturing units it is • important that designers and supplier personnel provide relevant details relating to • Childrenswear safety making known, at the earliest opportunity, the intended end use and • age group. • 当挑选和寻找面辅料成分、服装生产单元时，设计者和提供者必须熟知童装安全相关细节，最初和最终的使用 • 目的以及适用的年龄段。 • Further reading 更深入阅读见以下条文。 • BS7907: 1197 Code of practice for ‘The Design and Manufacture of Children’s Clothing to • promote Mechanical Safety. • Terms and Definitions 术语和定义 • For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. • 以下术语和定义适用于此文件。 • Young child 幼童 • Person aged from birth to age 7 years (that is 6 years and 11 months) which includes all children up to and including a height of 134 cm. • 指从出生到七岁（即六岁零十一个月）其中包括所有身高不满或到达134厘米的儿童。 • Older child and young person大童和青少年 • Person aged from 7 years up to age 14 years (that is up to 13 years and 11 months) which includes all boys of height greater than 134 cm up to 182 cm and girls of height greater than 134 cm up to 176 cm. • 指七岁至十四岁（即十三岁零十一个月）的少年，包括所有身高超过134cm至182cm的男孩，所有身高超过134cm至176cm的女孩。

20. Children‘s clothing 童装 • All garments intended by design, production route or selling route to be worn by children up to age of 14 years, including all garments intended for boys up to height 182 cm and for girls up to 176 cm. • 指所有为十四岁及十四岁以下儿童设计，生产销售的服装。其中包括身高不超过182厘米的男孩和身高不超过176厘米的女孩的服装。 • Drawstring 抽绳 • Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel, loop(s) or eyelet(s) or similar, to adjust the size of the opening, or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself. • 指绳索，链条，缎带，棉绳及任何纺织或非纺织材质的带子，通过管道，环带或汽眼以及类似物，用来调节服装开口及部件的尺寸，或用来扎系服装本身。 • NOTE 1 The protruding length of the drawstring may increase when closure is affected. • 注意一：抽绳突出的长度会受关闭口的影响而增长。 • NOTE 2 For some garments a drawstring may be a loop with a tightening device rather than a single length with two ends that may or may not be tied. • 注意二：有些服装上的抽绳会由固定的装置形成环状，而不是一根简单的两头系扎或不系扎的长绳。 • Functional cord 功能性绳索 • Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material with or without embellishment, such as toggle, pom-pom, feather or bead, of fixed length, which is used, to adjust the size of the opening, or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself. • 指绳索、链条、缎带、细绳或任何纺织非纺织材质配有或不配有用来固定长度的装饰物，例如套锁钉，绒球，羽毛或珠子等以达到调节服装开口，部件的尺寸或系扎服装本身。 • Decorative cord 装饰性绳索 • Non-functional cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material with or without embellishment such as toggle, pom-pom, feather or bead, of fixed length and not intended to be used to adjust the size of the garment opening or fasten the garment itself. • 指无功能的绳索、链条、缎带、细绳或任何纺织非纺织材制配有或不配有用来固定长度的装饰物，例如套锁钉，绒球，羽毛或珠子等但并不具有调节服装开口，部件的尺寸或系扎服装本身。 • Elastic cord 橡筋绳 • Cords containing yarns of rubber or elastodiene or elastane polymer or similar, having high extensibility and complete or near complete recovery. • 含有弹性纤维或类似物，有极强的延伸性以及完全的或几乎完全的回复性的线绳。 • Shoulder strap 肩带 • Functional cord joining the front and back of a garment top together, which is close fitting and passes over the shoulder. • 功能性绳带，缝制于服装前后片拼缝顶端，通过肩部形成一个适合的闭环。

21. Halter neck cord 颈部吊带 • Functional cord worn round the back of the neck holding the garment (for example dress, blouse or bikini) top leaving the shoulder and back bare. • 功能性线绳，穿过后颈支撑服装顶部（例如：连衣裙，胸衣或比基尼）并使肩处背部裸露。 • Sash 腰绳 • Drawstring, decorative or functional cord of textile material of not less than 30 mm in width worn round the waist of a garment and tied in a bow. • 抽绳，装饰性或功能性的由纺织材料制成的宽度不小于30mm环绕于服装腰部并且系结。 • Stirrup 踏脚 • Narrow strip of textile or non-textile material attached to the lower hem of a trouser such that it passes under the foot or shoe to create a close fit to wearer. • 由纺织或非纺织材质制成的窄带缝制于裤口处以至可以通过穿着者的足或鞋形成一个适合的闭口。 • Toggle 套锁钉 • Wooden, plastic, metal or otherwise composed piece attached to or present on, a drawstring, functional cord or decorative cord. • 木制的，塑料的，金属的或者其它材质的出现在抽绳，功能性或装饰性细绳上的块状物。 • NOTE Toggles may or may not be functional. • 注意：套锁钉有功能性和非功能性的类型。 • Loop 线环 • Cord or narrow strip of fabric curved in shape, which may be fixed or adjustable in length, where both ends are attached to the garment. • 由绳或窄布条弯曲成型，有固定的长度或可调节的长度，且两端都缝制在服装上。 • Requirements 要求General 一般要求 • The ends of drawstrings, functional cords, and sashes, shall not be knotted and shall be secured to prevent fraying, for example by heat sealing or bar tacking. Doubling or folding of the ends is acceptable provided no hazard of entrapment is created. • 抽绳末端，功能性绳带及腰带上不能有结状物并且缝制牢固防止散边，例如热封或打套结。可以采取末端双层或折叠防止此风险。 • Toggles shall only be used on drawstrings with no free ends or decorative cords. • 套锁钉仅用于无端抽绳或装饰绳。 • Children’s garments shall not be designed to have drawstrings, decorative cords or functional cords, which emerge from the back of the garment or to be tied at the back. • 童装上的装饰性抽绳或功能性抽绳不能设计在背面或设计成系扎在背面。

22. NOTE Sashes are exempt. • 注意：免除腰绳。 • Where they are permitted, drawstrings shall be secured, for example using a bar tack, in at least one point positioned equidistant from the exit points. • 抽绳必须在允许处缝制牢固，例如打套结，或在出口处至少有一个等距的定位。 • Fixed loops, which protrude from the garment, for example to fasten, shall be no more than 75 mm in circumference. • 突出服装的固定环(例如钩口部件)一圈不能超过75mm. • All measurements shall be carried out in accordance to EN standard. • 所有的尺寸必须按照英国标准。 • Hood and neck area on garments for young children 幼童装防风帽及颈部 • Garments intended for young children shall not be designed, manufactured or supplied with drawstrings, functional cords or decorative cords in the hood or neck area. • 为幼童设计的服装在风帽或颈部不能设计、制造或提供抽绳，功能性绳索或装饰性绳索。 • Hood and neck area on garments for older children and young persons • 大童及青少年装的防风帽及颈部 • Drawstrings shall not have free ends. • 抽绳不能没有末端。 • When the opening of the garment is at its largest and the garment is laid flat there shall be no protruding loop. When the garment opening is at its smallest, that is the size it is intended to fit, maximum protruding loop circumference shall be 150 mm. • 当服装开口处达到最大尺寸和服装摊平放置时不应有突出环。当服装开口处于最小尺寸时，即符设计意图的尺寸，最大突出环一圈为150mm。 • Functional cords shall not be more than 75 mm in length at either end. • 功能性绳索任意端长度不能超过75mm. • Functional cords shall not be made from elastic cords. • 功能性绳索不能用弹性绳索。 • Decorative cords shall not be more than 75 mm in length at either end including any attachment such as a toggle. • 装饰性绳索任意端长度不能超过75mm，其中包括任何附加物例如套锁钉。 • Decorative cords shall not be made from elastic cords. • 装饰性绳索不能用弹性绳索。 • Halter neck style garments shall be constructed with no loose ends in the hook and neck area. • 套颈款服装在风帽和颈处的绳带不能有松散的端口。

23. Waist area of garments 服装腰部 • Drawstrings in the waist area shall protrude by a maximum of 140 mm at each end when the garment is flat on pattern and by no more than 280 mm when closed to the intended waist size. • 服装放平时，腰部各端抽绳突出最大不能超过140mm，束紧达到设计腰围尺寸时不能超过280mm。 • Functional cords and decorative cords in the waist area shall be a maximum of 140 mm including any embellishment on decorative cords. • 腰部功能性绳索和装饰性线绳最长为140mm，包括装饰性绳索上的装饰物件。 • Belt loops shall be designed to lie flat against the garment. • 环状带必须设计成平贴在服装上。 • Sashes shall be acceptable provided that when untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment. The length of the sash when untied measured from the point where it is to be tied shall be no more than 360 mm. • 腰绳解开时不能悬出于服装下摆处。解开时的腰绳从顶点量到系结处不能超过360mm. • Lower hems of garments which hang below the waist • 腰下服装摆处 • Drawstrings, decorative cords or functional cords including any toggle on the lower edges of garments where the lower edge is situated below the hip shall not hang below the lower edge of the garment and should be totally inside the garment. If they are external to the garment, the drawstring or cord shall lie flat against the garment, when the garment is fastened or tightened. • 服装过臀底边处抽绳，装饰性绳索或功能性绳索包括任何套锁钉不能超过下摆处，必须完全在服装长度范围内。如果超过，抽绳或系带在服装扎牢或拉紧时必须相对于服装平坦。 • There shall be no protruding drawstrings, functional cords or decorative cords on the bottom hem of coats, trousers or skirts, which are designed to finish at the ankle. • 长度至脚裸的外套，裤装，裙装折边底摆处不能设计突出的抽绳，功能性或装饰性抽绳。 • NOTE Stirrups at the hem of trousers are acceptable. • 注意： 裤口踏脚是可以接受的。 • Sleeves 袖口 • Drawstrings, functional cords and decorative cords at the lower edge of long sleeved garments shall be totally on the inside of the garment, when the garment is finished. • 长袖服装折光边后，袖口底摆处的抽绳，功能性或装饰性绳索必须完全在服装内部。 • Drawstrings, functional cords and decorative cords are acceptable on short sleeved garments provided the sleeve finishes above the elbow and the maximum protruding length is 140 mm measured laid flat on pattern. • 若短袖服装的袖口折边在手肘上方，那么其上的抽绳，功能性和装饰性绳索是可以接受的，但平放时突出长度不能超过140mm。

24. Fabric / Materials 面料/原料 • Fabric and materials should be selected with consideration. They should not risk or hazard in wear when forming part of a garment. Consideration should be given to determining the continued performance of the fabrics in accordance with the fabric care label. • 选择面料和原料时应当考虑周全，制成服装后穿着时不能有任何风险。考虑事项决定面料特性并符合织物洗标内容。 • Other parts of the garment 服装的其它部位 • In all other areas of the garment, not previously addressed, the drawstring or functional and decorative cords shall protrude by no more than 140 mm when the garment is open to its largest. • 除了以上所提到的服装部位，在其它部位上，当其开口达到最大时，所有抽绳包括功能性或装饰性绳索都不能超过140mm。 • Flammability 易燃性 • ·Labeling 商标 • Brushed surface and pile fabrics, irrespective of age group, must carry on the labels: • 拉绒和起毛织物不论年龄阶段必须贴上以下标签。 • ‘KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE AND NAKED FLAME’ • 远离火苗和明火 • ·Surface Flash Test 表面喷溅测试 • Brushed or pile fabrics (excluding 100% Polyester fleece & corduroy) for all childrenswear must be tested for flash flame BS 4569 (1990) • 所有用于童装的拉绒和起毛织物面料（排除100%聚酯绒毛和灯芯绒）必须进行此测试。 ·Ramie/Cotton 麻/棉 Ramie/Cotton fabrics have a high propensity to rapid surface flashing when in contact with fire or naked flame and must not be used. 麻棉混纺织物在遇到火苗或明火时有较高的表面急速燃起的倾向所以不能使用。 ·Reducing Flammability Properties 减小易燃性的措施 Wherever possible, polyester or blends with polyester should be used to reduce the flammability of cellulostic fibres. 在任何有可能的情况下，必须使用聚酯或聚酯混合纤维降低织物易燃性。 ·Minimum Fabric Weights 最小的面料克重 To reduce the risk of flammability, cellulostic and silk fabrics below 140 g/m2 should not be used. However, fashion trends may demand the use of these lightweight fabrics. The buyer must decide whether the garment/fabric combination provides sufficiently low risk 为了降低易燃性风险，不能使用每平方米低于140克的单纤维织物和丝织物。然而有些服装款式倾向于使用轻薄面料。买手必须决定如何考虑这两点充分降低风险性。

25. Pile fabrics 起毛织物 Pile fabrics should be selected from fabric construction with: - 从面料结构中挑选出起毛织物： ·The lowest pile height to fulfill the aesthetic requirements of the end use. 运用符合审美需要的最低的起毛高度用于最终用途。 ·The lowest fibre shedding properties. 最低的纤维脱落特性。 ·At the present time there is no known test method with good repeatability for evaluating fibre-shedding properties of pile fabrics. When a suitable test method becomes available, then it will be included in the Visage Performance Standard. 到目前阶段为止还未知有良好反复性的测试方法评估起毛织物脱毛的特性。当将来获知一个适合的测试方法时，它将会被纳入维雅公司生产标准内。 ·Brushed or pile fabric (excluding 100% polyester fleece and corduroy) for all Childrenwear garments and accessories, must be tested Surface Flash Flame BS 4569: 1983 (1990) 所有用于儿童装和辅料上的起毛或拉绒面料（除了100%聚酯羊毛和灯芯绒）必须经过火星喷溅测试。 Stonewash Products 石磨砂洗产品 All stones must be removed from “stonewashed” products. Products must be routinely pulled inside out before garments are dispatched to stores. 石磨砂洗服装上必须移除所有石子。服装在分配储藏时必须经过例行公事的里外翻查。 Waddings 填料 ·To reduce flammability properties, waddings must be made from heat-bonded polyester or synthetic fibres with low flammability properties rather than resin bonded polyester waddings. 为了降低易燃性，填充料必须用低燃点耐热性聚酯或合成纤维而不是涂脂的填料。 ·Waddings should be firmly bonded to withstand cleansing (washing and dry cleaning) without fibre migration. Face fabrics must be of a suitable construction to minimise fibre percolation. 填充料必须能经得住清洗（水洗或干洗）不能移动。贴面必须用适当的面料结构，使填充物的外渗达到最小。 The following test can be used to verify the suitability of fabrics. 以下测试可以用来检验面料的合适性。 ·BS EN ISO 9237: 1995 ‘Determination of the Permeability of Fabrics toAir’. Fabrics should have an air permeability of less than 6.0 cc/cm2/sec at 0.98 mbar. 面料空气渗透性。面料空气渗透性必须小于6.0 cc/cm2/sec at 0.98 mbar ·Using a knitted, woven or non-woven scrim fabric covering the wadding prior to the face fabric or lining can provide further protection against fibre migration. 用编织，机织或无纺松散平纹面料覆盖住填充物置于面料或里料内可以进一步防止纤维渗透。

26. ·Garments, which contain waddings, fillings or foam, must be designed so that the filling material is inaccessible and secured by stitching. 有填充纤维，填充物或起泡的服装，必须设计使填充物难以渗透并能够安全缝制的。 ·Thread used to secure filling materials must be able to withstand a tensile force of 70N. 用于缝制有填充物的服装的缝纫线必须能够经受得住70N的拉力。 ·Waddings or quilting must not contain sharp or hard objects. 填充物或软衬不能含有尖锐坚硬的物体。 Toxicity 毒性 ·In order to achieve the desired appearance and effect, many materials & components incorporate pigments, colourants, laquers or coatings. Where used they must comply with Toy Safety Standard BS EN 71: Part 3 1995 concerning the Migration of Certain Toxic Elements. 为了达到想要的外观和效果，许多物材和成分需要经过染色，着色或涂层等。但它们必须符合安全标准。 ·Fabrics must not contain heavy metals, which migrate beyond the limits specified in this standard. 面料中不能含有超出标准的重金属物质。 ·Dyestuffs can be toxic and cause harmful effects to humans. The EU publishes a list of dyestuffs known to be harmful to humans. Such dyestuffs must not be used on any textile materials destined for Visage products. Please refer to information regarding dying and finishing. t is the supplier’s responsibility to keep abreast of any new developments on Toxicity. 染料有毒并会对人体产生影响。英方出版了一份对人体有害的染料的清单。这些染料不能用于任何出口至维雅公司的纺织品，请查阅关于染色和后整理的相关资料。供应商有责任追踪关于毒性新的发现情况。 ·Garment makers must communicate the EU list to their fabric suppliers who, where relevant, must communicate to their fabric processors. 服装生产商必须和他们的相关面料供应商及面料处理商交流这些信息。 General 概括 Components should be selected with consideration. They should not present a risk or a hazard when worn by a child. Components should not break or disintegrate when subjected to repeated aftercare in accordance with the garment label. 在选择构成物料时必须考虑周详，穿在儿童身上不能有任何风险且按照服装标签所示久置后不能碎裂或破损。 Buttons / Toggles 纽扣套锁钉 ·Internal parts of the button should not have sharp edges since these may become exposed e.g. as a button covering wears away. 纽扣内部不能有尖角，因为某些原因会导致尖角裸露例如纽扣覆层脱落。 ·All exposed areas must be smooth and free from sharp edges. 所有裸露的区域必须平滑无尖角。

27. Duffle coat style toggles must comply with either of the following: - 带风帽款式套锁钉必须符合以下两点： ·Toggles with two holes must be attached by lockstitch. 两孔套锁钉必须用锁缝缝制。 ·Toggles which are attached with cord /fabric straps must be secure with a bar tack. 用线绳/本身面料带绳穿透的套锁钉必须打套结牢固。 ·Toggles must not be fastened through large eyelets as children’s fingers can be entrapped. 套锁钉不能通过较大的气眼固定防止陷住儿童的手指。 Material types 物材类型 ·Imitation waxed pearls 仿珍珠扣 These buttons are finished with a pearlescent hard wax finish. Some of these coatings contain high concentrations of lead. Suppliers must ensure that any waxed finished buttons DO NOT CONTAIN LEAD and comply with Toy Safety Standards BS EN71: Part 3:1995 concerning the Migration of Certain Toxic Elements. 这类纽扣有珍珠般光彩的蜡制涂层。其中某些涂层中含有高浓度的含铅量。供应商必须确保这类纽扣中不能含有任何铅成分并符合毒素安全标准。 ·Metal. 金属 Steel must not be used, as it will rust.不能用铁制品，铁会生锈。 ·Nickel 镍 If nickel buttons are likely to be in prolonged & direct contact with the skin they must comply with the European Nickel Directive (S.I. No1668 The Dangerous Substances and Preparations (Nickel) (Safety Regulations 2000). 直接或间接得接触肌肤的含镍纽扣必须符合欧洲有关镍含量标准 This limits the amount of nickel content and nickel release for the button. The Directive stipulates that when items are in direct and prolonged contact with the skin, and following a period of two years normal wear (as specified in EN 12472: 1998 / BS EN 1811:1999), the maximum permitted release of nickel must not exceed 0.5 micrograms/square cm /week. 限制纽扣的镍含量和释放量。规定间接或直接接触皮肤的含镍物在正常穿着两年时间内，最大允许镍释放量不能超过每周每平方厘米0.5毫克。 Where the buttons are stitched through lining, a backing / jigger button must be used. On single ply fabrics, functional buttons must have a reinforcing patch of interlining or self-fabric. 当纽扣刺穿里料时必须用后贴片。若面料是单层，功能性纽扣必须用夹层或本布面料加固。 Buttons must be attached with a minimum of 14 stitches. 缝制纽扣最少缝14针。 Spare buttons must not be attached to the garment in a plastic bag, they are to be attached on a satin tab, LHS seam as worn. 备扣不能用小塑料袋附在服装上，必须附在缝于左侧缝（穿着时）的色丁布上。

28. ·Dungaree Clips 牛仔夹 All dungaree clips used on Visage merchandise must comply with Toy Safety Standards, Section 8.4of BS EN 71 part1: 1998, assessment of button removal force. All exposed areas must be smooth and free from any sharp edges. 所有用于维雅公司商品中的牛仔裤夹必须符合玩具安全标准，评估纽扣移除力道。所有裸露区域必须平滑且没有锐边。 ·Attachment 附件 For ages 3 years and above the clips have a double sliding bar. Extra security can be provided on the clip ends by the strap being folded and stitched. 使用期为三年的夹子必须打双套结。夹子末端翻折且加固缝确保额外的牢度。 Fold back end of strap 2cm and stitch through 1cm from end with end facing out. 带绳底端翻折2厘米且在末端贴面1厘米处缉线。 Press Fasteners / Stud Buttons / Rivet 钦纽/工字扣/铆钉 ·All Fasteners must meet with Visage Performance Standard For Fastenings. 所有搭扣必须符合维雅公司相关生产标准。 ·All colourants/lacquers/coatings, where used must comply with Toy Safety Standards BSEN71:Part 3:1995concerning Migration Certain Toxic Elements. 所有用于其上的着色剂，涂漆，涂层必须符合玩具/毒性安全条例。 If nickel fasteners/studs or rivets are likely to be in prolonged & direct contact with the skin they must comply with the European Nickel Directive (S.I.No.1668 The Dangerous Substances and Preparations (Nickel) (Safety) Regulations 2000) 如果含镍的钦纽，饰纽或铆钉有可能直接或间接接触皮肤必须符合欧洲含镍条例。 This limits the amount of nickel content and nickel release for the button. The Directive stipulates that when items are in direct and prolonged contact with the skin and following a period of two years normal wear (as specified in EN12472: 1998/BS EN 1811:1999), the maximum permitted release of nickel must not exceed 0.5 micrograms / square cm / week. 限制纽扣的镍含量和释放量。规定间接或直接接触皮肤的含镍物在正常穿着两年内，最大允许镍释放量不能超过每周每平方厘米0.5毫克。 ·General 概述 The failure of press fasteners is one of the single, most frequent, causes of customer complaint on children’s garments. The parents express concern that the child might have swallowed or choked on the metal fastener, or that injury is caused by sharp edges. 钦纽的故障是造成顾客对于童装投诉的单一且多频率原因。父母表示担心孩子会吞下这些金属搭扣甚至因此引起窒息另外有可能被尖锐的边缘损伤的风险。 The correct and permanent application of press fasteners to garments requires constant vigilance on the part of all concerned if press fastener failures are to be prevented. 对于服装上的钦纽正确和持久的使用，需要对于所有相关部件的保持警惕性以预防钦纽故障。 It is the manufacturer’s responsibility to supply products that are engineered to strictly controlled standards that ensures reliability. 制造商有责任提供可靠的受严格控制达到标准的产品。

29. ·Material Types 材质类型   Steel must not be used, as it will rust. If nickel clips are likely to be in prolonged and direct contact with the skin they must comply with the European Nickel Directive (S.I.No.1668The Dangerous Substances and Preparations (Nickel) (Safety) Regulations 2000). 不能用铁会生锈。如果含镍夹会直接或间接接触皮肤，必须符合欧洲含镍标准。 This limits the amount of nickel release for the button. The Directive stipulates than when items are in direct and prolonged contact with the skin, and following a period of two years normal wear (as specified in EN 12472: 1998/ BS EN 1811: 1999), the maximum permitted release of nickel must not exceed 0.5 micrograms/square cm/week. 限制纽扣中的镍释放量。规定间接或直接接触皮肤的含镍物在正常穿着两年内最大允许镍释放量不能超过每周每平方厘米0.5毫克。 It is the garment maker’s responsibility to ensure that the application process is vigilantly controlled throughout production. 供应商有责任确保谨慎控制所有的产品的处理过程。 Exposed areas must be smooth and free from sharp edges.  裸露部分必须平滑无尖角。 ·Design of garment.服装款式设计 Press fasteners must never be applied across seams or other areas where thickness varies. This can result in inadequate clenching or uneven application of the fastener. 钦扣不能钉在交叉缝或厚度改变的区域。这会导致缝钉不牢固或使用时不平坦。 Using different lengths on the same garment is not advisable. 同一件衣服上不接受不同长度的钦扣。 Post studs must not be used on knitted fabrics. 针织面料上不能出现有纽柱的钦扣。 ·Selection of Fastener. 选择搭扣 The initial assessment must be carried out by the garment maker in conjunction with the press fastener supplier. It is recommended that a press fastener data sheet be completed at this stage. 服装生产商必须同搭扣供应商进行最初评估。建议在这个阶段完成一份搭扣的资料。 All metal fasteners must be brass to prevent rusting. For ring and prong fasteners, the brass must be manufactured from 70% Copper and 30% Zinc with a minimum strip of 0.5mm and a maximum hardness of 105VHN. This will minimize the risk of stress corrosion through prolonged exposure to ammonia from baby urine. 所有的金属搭扣必须是铜制的防止生锈。环扣和裆扣必须由70%铜和30%锌制成，最窄条宽为0.5mm最大坚硬度为105VHN。这样会使腐蚀风险降到最低，即使是裸露在婴儿的含氮尿液中。

30. Whatever the fastener being used, it is vital that the length of the post/ prong be accurately matched to the thickest fabric to which it is being applied. The depth of machine clenching should be set to match the thickness. 不管用什么样的搭扣，最重要的是柱长或裆叉长需要准确得匹配面料缝钉处的最厚部分。机械缝钉的深度必须匹配厚度。 It is recommended that 15 ligne is the minimum size of press fastener that should be used. 15L是推荐使用的钦纽最小的尺寸。 Studs must be applied to single ply fabric and must be reinforced with double fabric or interlining. 工字扣用于单层面料时必须用双层或加衬加固。 Some thin fabrics may need a stud washer for extra security. 用于某些薄型面料上必须加垫圈加固。 The handling and attachment of press fasteners must be closely controlled to prevent failures in use. The use of statistical process control can lead to increased confidence levels, some company’s recommend the use of process capability evaluations and control charts. 处理和配置钦钮时必须严格控制防止使用时产生故障。统计加工过程的管理增加良好的程度。推荐利用加工能力评估和控制图表。 Fabric used to support a press fastener must meet the tear strength specified. 使用钦纽的面料必须经过指定的撕拉强度测试。 ·Stud Buttons 工字扣 Stud buttons with the arrowhead prong are the only type acceptable. 带箭状插杆的工字扣是唯一接受的类型。 ·Applications of Fasteners to wash -down Garments.在水洗服装上应用搭扣 Press fasteners/stud buttons must be applied to the garment after washing. 服装水洗后才能缝制钦钮，工字扣。 It is possible for the press fasteners /studs buttons on denim garments to corrode- crack, and subsequently fall off the garment, when press fasteners have been applied prior to washing down. This is the result of chemicals used in the wash being trapped and then not adequately neutralized, leading to corrosion. 钦扣在水洗前缝钉有可能导致牛仔服装上的钦纽，工字扣腐蚀，破裂掉落。这是由于使用的化学试剂残留在服装上没有被充分清理导致腐蚀的结果。 Factory Considerations 工厂需要考虑的方面   The following are supplementary points representing good factory practice: - 以下增加条例提出良好的工厂实践措施： ·Any fasteners, which have been removed from garments, must never be re-used. 任何搭扣被移除服装后，不能被再次利用。

31. ·Correct fastener application relies heavily upon the satisfactory functioning of the machinery, including dyes and vital routine machine Maintenance. Fastener manufacturers usually provide a good technical back -up service, which includes regular visits to the manufacturing unit. 正确得应用搭扣大部分依赖于令人满意得机械机能，其中包括清洗和重要的日常机械维护。搭扣制造商通常需要提供良好的技术背景扶持。包括定期指导生产单位。 Attachment Of Fastener 搭扣配件 ·Garment makers must NOT use attaching machines operated by DIRECT foot applied pressure unless they incorporate a non-return ratchet mechanism designed to ensure that the foot pedal travels through the full of the machine, thus ensuring correct applied pressure. 服装缝制者不能使用由脚部直接施力产生动力的缝制机械除非是设计成没有来回齿轮传动的机械装置确保脚踏板传动于整个机械，这样便能够提供正确的压力。 ·The use of semi-automatic machinery, powered electrically or by compressed air, is preferable. However machines powered by compressed air must be fitted with a pressure guide valve, which will stop the machine from operating if the airline pressure falls below the pre-set level necessary for satisfactory application. 利用由电动或空气压缩产生动力的半自动机械是比较可取的。由压缩空气启动的机械必须配置压力引导管，停止和启动机械时可以利用预设的空气压力。 ·The back of the post attachments must be flat. A rounded appearance indicates insufficient clenching pressure. 反面钉柱必须平坦。鼓胀的表面显示钉制压力不够。 ·The fabric must be firmly clamped so that is IMPOSSIBLE to insert a thin object, such as a fingernail, between the fabric and the metal fastener. 面料必须被紧夹住以至于不可能在面料和金属搭扣件中插入一个薄片，例如指甲。 ·It is essential that all press fasteners for each garment are opened and closed to test their function. 每一件衣服上所有的按扣都必需经过开合功能测试。 ·All garments with closed feet must be turned inside out to ensure that no loose press fastener parts, which could be a hazard to the wearer, have fallen inside the garment. 所有下摆闭合的服装必须翻开里面确认没有松散的搭扣部件掉落在服装里面导致有可能伤害穿着者。 As part of good practice and quality assurance the garment maker must measure and record the pinch setting on all the machines every morning and afternoon. The supplier must use a digital vernier measuring device. If any variation from the measurement recommended by the press fastener supplier exists the machinery must be re-set to the correct setting immediately. 作为良好的操作和质量担保的一部分，服装制造者必须每天早上和晚上测量并记录施在所有的机器上的压力。供应商必须用一个数字游标测试仪测试其压力。如果机器中存在的测试结果与搭扣提供商推荐的不同，必须立刻重新设置正确的装置。 Zip Fasteners 拉链扣件 ·All zips must meet with Visage performance standards and comply with British Standard BS3084: 1992. 所有的拉链必须符合维雅公司的性能标准并符合英国标准。

32. ·All colourants/lacquers/coatings where used, must comply with Toy Safety Standards BS EN 71: Part 3: 1995 concerning Migration of Toxic Elements. 所有使用着色，涂漆及涂层部件必须符合玩具安全标准。 ·If nickel zips are likely to be in prolonged and direct contact with the skin they must comply with the European Nickel Directive (S.I. No.1668 The Dangerous Substances Preparations (Nickel) (Safety) Regulations 2000). 如果含镍拉链需直接或间接接触肌肤，必须符合欧洲含镍指示文件。 This limits the amount of nickel content and nickel release in the metal. The Directive stipulates that when items are in direct and prolonged contact with the skin, and following a period of years normal wear (as specified in EN12472: 19998/BSEN1811:1999), the maximum permitted release of nickel must not exceed 0.5 micrograms/square cm/week. 限制纽扣的镍含量和释放量。规定间接或直接接触皮肤的含镍物在正常穿着两年内，最大允许镍释放量不能超过每周每平方厘米0.5毫克。 ·It is recommended that all boys trousers with a zip fly have a minimum 2cm wide guard. All garments with metal zips must have a zip guard to prevent skin irritation. 推荐所有男童裤装门襟拉链最小宽度为2厘米。所有用金属拉链的服装必须采取措施防止刺激皮肤。 ·Zips are not acceptable in Boys Jeans/Trousers up to Age 3 years. 三岁以下男童上/下装不能有拉链。 Material Types 材质类型 ·Claw type stops are not acceptable. To prevent skin irritation ‘D’ top stops, injection moulded, or welded top stops, must be used. 不接收爪型堵头。为防止皮肤刺激必须用D型堵头，轨道覆盖或焊接型堵头。 ·Zip with plastic teeth may reduce severity of an injury if entrapment does occur and are therefore preferable to zips with metal teeth. 发生意外的情况下，塑料牙齿的拉链比起金属牙齿的拉链可以降低其伤害性。 Vinyl P.U. zip pulls must be assessed for the following: - 乙烯基拉链拉头必须按以下评估： ·Inherent strength suitable for application and to withstand a 90N pull. 适合应用的本身强度和经受得住90N的拉力。 ·No detachable parts that could be swallowed or cause choking. 没有可分离的部分导致吞咽或窒息。 Attachment 配件 The top and bottom of a zipmust be secured so the slider cannot be removed. 拉链顶端和底端必须牢固确保滑块不会被移出。 ·The top stop on open-ended zips must have a top cob or other means to retain slider. 开闭拉链最顶端必须有圆止点或其它措施制止滑块滑出拉链。 ·Care must be taken to ensure no cut coil -end protrudes above the top stop, as this can cause skin irritation. 必须注意确保拉链顶端没有剪断后产生卷状突出物防止刺激肌肤。 ·Zips at center front neck must start 1cm from top of garment. 前中颈处拉链开始处必须距服装最高点1厘米空隙。

33. 2 1 3 Elastics 橡筋 ·Fully enclosed elastic 完全闭合的橡筋 Elastic, where used, must not restrict blood circulation or otherwise risk causing discomfort or mark the skin of the child. Both relaxed and extended elastic measurements must be included on the size chart. 使用橡筋处不能约束儿童的血液循环或导致不适或在肌肤上留下印记。尺寸表中必须包含橡筋松量和拉伸尺寸。 ·Elastic not enclosed in a channel must have a soft-brushed surface if worn next to the skin. 非封闭在管道中的橡筋如果需接触肌肤必须有柔软的拉绒表面。 ·Shirring 装饰褶 For a single or a multi-needle application, the stitches must be secured at the cut-off edge by lockstitch or bar tack to prevent stitches running back, which could cause entanglement and possible strangulation. 适用于单针或多针缝制，切断的边缘必须锁边牢固或打套结防止散边引起纠结和可能发生的萎缩。 Design Aspects 款式外观 General 概述 When designing garments with cords, bows, or ribbons, care should be taken to avoid potential hazards. 设计的服装上若有绳带，蝴蝶结或缎带时必须注意避免潜在的危险。 Bows & Cords - Age 2-8yrs 蝴蝶结和绳带-（2至8周岁） On Hoods 帽子上 ·Mock cords are not allowed on hoods and up to and including 3yrs. 三周岁以下包括三周岁帽子上不能有绳带。 ·Mock cords are allowed on hoods from 4yrs and above. 四周岁及以上允许用无功能绳带。 ·The cord must be not longer than 8cms, must be securely fixed in a hood by a bar tack close to the cord opening and must not be able to be pulled to reduce the hood circumference in any way. 绳带长度不能超过8厘米，必须安全牢固得打套结固定在帽子上接近绳带的开口处且任何情况下都不能通过拉扯减少帽子的周长。 • Measurement of cord length测量绳长 • All measurements shall be made with cords or loops in a relaxed state. • 所有的绳带和绳环必须在放松状态下进行测量。 • Measurement of cords with one free end 一端放松测量绳长

34. 1 3 2 5 4 • Key 重点 • 1 Cord – straight, one free end. 绳带 –笔直，一端放松 • 2 Garment 服装 • 3 Length of cord in mm 绳带长度精确到毫米 • Measurement of cord with no free ends 没有放松端测量绳带 • Key重点 • Toggle 套锁钉 • Cord – no free end 绳带——无松端 • Garment 服装 • Length of hoop (in mm) 线环长精确到毫米 • Fixed ends both secured inside garment 两端安全牢固得固定在服装里 • NOTE the loop circumference is twice the flat length. • 注意 线环周长是两倍的平量长度。 • At the Waistband 腰带 • Mock cords at the waistband are allowed and must be no longer than a maximum of 14cm. • 腰带无功能绳带是可以接受的但最大长度不能超过14厘米。 • ·Functional cords are permitted at the waistband from 4yrs and above and must not be longer than 14cm when the waist of the garment is flat and not gathered, this must always have bar tack secured at center back. • 功能性绳带允许用于四岁及四岁以上儿童，但当服装腰部平放不皱褶时不能超过14厘米。后腰中必须打安 • 全套结。

35. At the Hem of Jackets夹克下摆 ·Functional cords are permitted at the centre front hem and must not be any longer than 8cmwhen the hem of the jacket is flat and not gathered. 前中下摆允许功能性绳带，但当夹克下摆平放不起褶时必须不超过8厘米。 ·Side or back cords on any jacket are not permitted. These cords could be a product safety issue due to the cords hanging behind the child and get caught in doors of moving vehicles when exiting. 夹克侧边和身后不允许有系带，因为当出门或离开移动的交通工具时，这类悬挂在儿童身后的系带有可能造成安全问题。 ·Garments with hood cords must comply with Hood Cord Regulations 1976. Hood or neck draw - through cords must not be used on any child’s garments. 带帽绳的服装必须遵守《帽绳规则1976》。任何童装上都不能有贯穿帽或颈部的抽绳。 HOODS帽子 ·Garments with the hood cords must comply with the Hood Cord Regulations 1976. 带帽绳的服装必须遵守《帽绳规则1976》。 ·Hood or neck draw - through cords must not be used on any children’s garments. 任何童装上都不能有贯穿帽或颈部的抽绳。 ·Fabric must not present a risk or a hazard to the wearer when forming part of a hood. The fabric must not be impermeable to air as this could cause suffocation. 帽子的面料不能对穿着者产生任何风险，不能是不透气的有可能导致窒息的材料。 Motifs, Embroideries and Badges 花边，绣花和徽章 ·All motifs, embroideries, and badges must meet Visage Performance Standards for Trimmings. 所有的花边，刺绣和徽章必须符合维雅公司辅料性能标准。 ·Direct Embroideries / Appliqués直接的刺绣/贴花 A non-woven backing fabric* is usually clamped behind the garment fabric for improved stability. After embroidery the backing fabric is removed. However, it is often impossible to remove every piece of backing. Therefore some embroidery may need to be bagged out if worn next to skin to avoid skin irritation. 通常用无纺布后贴面料夹住面料改进其稳定在衣服上的性能。刺绣完成后移出后贴布。然而基本上移除每一块小碎片是不可能的。如果穿着时紧挨肌肤且为了避免刺激皮肤，某些刺绣的夹缝需要翻转。 (*The handle of backing must be agreed with Buyer prior to production. Either the softest possible backing or water -soluble backing should be used.) 衬布手感必须在生产大货前征得买手同意。或者使用尽可能最柔软的衬布，或是用可溶于水的衬布。 Embroidery thread must conform to the fabric performance standard relating to its product type and garment care instructions, and be as soft as possible if worn next to the skin. 绣花线必须符合相关产品类型的面料特性和服装洗护指示。若穿着时紧挨肌肤必须尽可能柔软。 Sufficient locking of stitching must be used at the start / finish to prevent embroidery unraveling or breaking down when trimmed. Knots or thread ends on the back of the embroidery must not be rough or abrasive. 首尾端必须充分锁边防止修剪时绣花散边或破碎。绣花背后的结或线端不能是粗糙或研磨颗粒状的。

36. ·Stitched On Motifs / Badges 花边和徽章上的缉线 These must be attached with lockstitch, ensuring the finish is back tacked, to prevent unraveling during wash and wear. 必须用锁式缝迹缝制，确保完结处倒回针防止穿着和水洗时散边。 NECK STRETCH 颈部拉伸 ·ALL NECK OPENINGS MUST ACHIEVE A MINIMUM NECK STRETCH OF 56CM ON ALL GARMENTS UP TO 7 / 8 YRS AND 60CM OVER 7/8 YRS. 所有颈部开口必须达到最小颈部拉伸后尺寸56厘米（7/8周岁及以下），60厘米（7/8周岁以上）。 ·The seams must not crack or break on achieving this measurement and the neck must return to its original shape without sign of distortion. 拉伸时不能为了达到尺寸导致拼缝破裂或爆口并且颈部必须恢复到原来的形状没有扭曲的迹象。 ·Braid / tape labels used on the inside of necklines must not have heat seal cut edges. These could cause abrasion or skin irritation. 用于颈圈内的编织/带状标签不能有热封切边，因为有可能导致磨损或刺激皮肤。 Stitching, Hems and Neck Finishes缝纫，下摆和颈部折光 Joins, where permitted, must be neat and secure. 若允许拼缝，拼缝处必须安全整洁。 For twin-needle cover-seaming , the finishing end must be finished by one of the following methods to prevent the end unraveling, which could cause entanglement and possible strangulation. 对于双针覆盖缝，折光处必须用以下方法之一用来防止散边导致的纠缠和可能的萎缩。 ·Lock stitch reinforce 加固锁缝 ·Bar tack 打套结 ·Trapped within the seam 截留在拼缝里 ·Stitch locking (available on some machines) 缝纫锁边（专业机器） ·For decorative lustre thread, it is advisable to use a viscose / rayon lustre rather than nylon. 对于装饰发亮的缝纫线，应当选择粘胶/人造丝而不是尼龙丝。 ·Monofilament thread must not be used on any part of the garment or component / trim due to abrasive and unbreakable inherent properties which could cause injury or entrapment. 化纤缝纫线不能用来拼缝服装的任何组成部分及辅料，防止它固有的耐磨性和不可破损性对人体造成伤害。 ·Braid / tape labels used on the inside of necklines must not have heat sealed cut edges. These could cause abrasion or skin irritation. 缝在颈部里面的编织带或标签不能用切边热封防止磨损和刺激皮肤。

37. Textile Accessories 纺织辅料 The component safety requirements contained else where within this manual (for example buttons, clips, zips etc.) is generally equally applicable to accessories that use these components. 除了手册中提及的辅料，例如纽扣，回形针，拉练等，其它组成部件都需要符合安全需要。 In addition, the sections on flammability and toxicity are usually transferable to the accessories product area. 另外，辅料生产区域同样适用易燃性和毒性的要求。 Metal Content 金属含量 Metal contamination is taken very seriously by Visage, resulting in heavy fines and the possibility of customer injury cannot be emphasized enough. 维雅公司对于金属污染问题非常重视，将会导致严厉的处罚。必须反复强调有可能使顾客受到伤害的可能性。 Managing compliance to the directive & due diligence.依从管理 Visage and its suppliers, within their given deadlines, need to position our selves so that we can demonstrate clear conformance to the legislation. 维雅公司及他的供应商在货物的交期内需各自明确自身的法律地位。 The following can easily be implemented within our current procedural systems. 以下各项可以用我们现行的程序体制较容易得实施。 Assigned responsibility at Visage & the supplier.维雅公司和供应商的责任分配。 ·Assess the risk of the individual items for ‘prolonged & direct’ contact with the skin. This should be captured at the pre-production stage. 预备生产阶段评估直接/间接接触皮肤的各项目风险。 The supplier should consider this prior to a pre-production meeting. 供应商必须于预生产会议前考虑此问题。 If the answer is ‘yes’ then further investigation is imperative, as detailed below. 如果有风险必须强制性进一步调查，细节如下。 ·We should, by exception, record items that do come into direct & prolonged contact with the skin on the pre-production documentation. 在预生产文件中记录每一项可能直接/间接接触皮肤的物材。 ·Screening for nickel release using the Elusion QC test will determine the presence of nickel. If the test indicates the presence of nickel the full Elusion Reference Method test should be undertaken to determine which component part is responsible for the failure. 测试是否含有镍，若测试报告显示含镍，必须采取测试用来确定哪一个部分含镍。 ·Test sampling should be undertaken on a bulk order. The sampling plan should comprise of both in-house screening by the supplier & external testing a suggested frequency of sampling is as follows (based upon BS6001at 0.65%) 一批大货必须做一个测试。测试样本必须从同一批大货中挑选。测试计划包括以下的室内和室外测试。 ·For of the 1000 pieces, 5 pieces are to be checked in-house using the non-destructive screening kits. 1000件衣服中取5件用非破坏性放射工具进行室内测试。 ·Any significant events should be recorded along with the check details (Failures may lead to a change in source). 任何重要的项目必须按照测试细节记录。（如果未通过测试将会导致改变供应渠道。）

38. ·If a failure is recorded, then double the number should be checked with the screening kits & offending items be sent for confirmatory using BS EN 1811:1999 at a recognised test house. Any confirmed failures should result in rejection. 如果有未通过的测试记录，必须成倍数量重测，未通过项目必须由测试公司确认证实。确认不能通过测试后将导致拒收货物。 ·The sampling level may be reduced by 10% to 20% per inspection if all articles pass. 如果所有的测试项目都通过，那么抽样标准可以减少10%-20%。 ·For every 500 samples checked in house as above, 2 should be sent to a recognised test house for assessment to BS EN 1811:1999 after BS 12472. 每检查500件样品时，有2件必须送到专门机构去做评估。 ·For those items that will come into direct and prolonged contact with the skin, a detailed specification should be sought from the supplier. A letter of conformance should also be sought, but must be accompanied by suitable test documentation. 可能直接或间接接触皮肤的部件，需要从供应商那里拿到具体规格细节单，并附上同测试报告一致的相关证书。 ·A review of the system is required with the local Trading Standards Officer and will be routinely reviewed internally. 当地的贸易办公室需要注意这个操作系统并且例行公事的进行测试。 Lab tests 测试 All goods must be tested by ITS / SGS or other reputable laboratories for: - 所有的货物必须用ITS/SGS或其它著名测试公司测试以下内容： ·1. Fabric Composition. 面料成分 ·2. Dimensional stability to washing. 洗涤的稳定性 ·3. Colour fastness to washing. 水洗色牢度。 ·4. Colour fastness to wet rub. 湿摩擦色牢度 ·5. Colour fastness to dry rub. 干摩擦色牢度 Any additional requirements for customers will be advised. 以及其它客人需要测试的项目。