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The Crinoline Period

1850-1870. Chelsea Bell Southern Methodist University MSA 3325 Spring 2013. The Crinoline Period. Cutaway view of crinoline, Punch magazine, August 1856. Historical Background. England. Queen Victoria exemplified the B ritish ideal of womanhood

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The Crinoline Period

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  1. 1850-1870 Chelsea Bell Southern Methodist University MSA 3325 Spring 2013 The Crinoline Period Cutaway view of crinoline, Punch magazine, August 1856

  2. Historical Background England • Queen Victoria exemplified the British ideal of womanhood • Mid-century Britain enjoyed great prosperity • Britain hosted the Great Exhibition of 1851 The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

  3. Historical Background France • Louis Napoleon becomes Napoleon III and the Second French Republic becomes the Second Empire • France experienced economic growth and Paris was rebuilt • Paris again became the center of European fashion with the help of Charles Frederick Worth • Napoleon III abdicated and fled to Britain in 1870 • The Second Empire vanished and was replaced by the Third Republic The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

  4. Historical Background United States • Abraham Lincoln elected President in 1860 • Southern states secede and form the Confederacy • North vs. South in the American Civil War • Lincoln issued the Emancipation Proclamation in 1863 • Lincoln Assassinated in 1865 The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

  5. Charles Frederick Worth The Father of Haute Couture The Empress Eugénie (Eugénie de Montijo, 1826–1920, Condesa de Teba), 1854Franz XaverWinterhalter (German, 1805–1873) Empress Elisabeth in Courtly Gala Dress with Diamond Stars, 1865Franz XaverWinterhalter (German, 1805–1873) The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

  6. ChambreSyndicale de la Haute Couture presently the Fédérationfrançaise de la couture • Originated in 1868 and is still active today • The governing body of the French fashion industry • Sets the dates and location for French fashion week • Establishes industry standards on clothing • Establishes standards on the use of the word “haute couture” The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

  7. Sewing Machine • The Singer Sewing machine hit the market in 1851 • The number of sewing machines doubled between 1860 and 1865 • Became a vital factor in the development of industry The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

  8. CostumeforWomen The Crinoline Period Fashion Plate, 1853 The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

  9. CostumeforWomen Cage Crinoline Steel Cage Crinoline, 1858 The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

  10. Undergarments Getting Dressed Chemise Drawers Corset Crinoline Corset cover Petticoat The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

  11. CostumeforWomen Daytime dresses Day dresses, 1861 The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

  12. CostumeforWomen Evening dresses Portrait of Princesse Albert de Broglie, née Joséphine-Eléonore-Marie-Pauline de Galard de Brassac de Béarn, 1853 Jean AugusteDominqueIngres (French, 1780-1867) Charles Frederick Worth, circa 1860 The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

  13. Fashion & Celebrity The Garibaldi Blouse Giuseppe Garibaldi Past patterns #709 The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

  14. Dress Reform The “Bloomer” Costume • Consisted of a short skirt over Turkish Trousers • Initially adopted by feminist Elizabeth Smith Miller after a trip to Europe • Named for Amelia Bloomer who adopted the style and wrote about it favorably • Provoked much ridicule The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

  15. CostumeforWomen A caricature sequence of posed joke photographs, circa 1860, showing five stages of putting on a crinoline The Media A packing dilemma The hazards of public transportation The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

  16. CostumeEvolution 1850-1870 The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

  17. 1870-1900 Chelsea Bell Southern Methodist University MSA 3325 Spring 2013 The Bustle Period and the Nineties

  18. Historical Background 1870-1890 England France United States • The period began with the shock of the Franco-Prussian War • Napoleon III surrendered to the Prussian armies and fled to England • The Second Empire ended and was replaced by the Third Republic • Paris endured a bloody Civil War known as the Commune • The Civil War had ended • The country was united from East to West by railroads • Settlers were rapidly moving westward • Industrialization, urbanization, and immigration were continuing at a rapid pace • Victoria had already been queen for over 30 when the bustle arrived as popular fashion • Industrial England was experiencing an economic boom • England experienced a gradual extension of voting rights The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

  19. Evolution of the Bustle 1870-1878 1867 1873 Daytime dress, 1874 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

  20. Evolution of the Bustle 1878-1883 1877 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

  21. Evolution of the Bustle 1884-1890 1885 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

  22. Evolution of the Bustle A Visual Timeline The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

  23. Undergarments 1870-1890 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

  24. Active Sports & Clothing 1870-1890 Bathing costume, 1874 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

  25. Manufacturing Textile and Clothing Production • Power looms replaced handlooms • Synthetic dyes became common and were more reliable • Silks were weighted • Cotton fabrics were improved with mercerizing • Women’s ready-to-wear clothing became available in department stores • Mail-order catalogs proved successful for rural shoppers The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

  26. Visual Arts & Costume Pre-Raphaelite Dress May Morris by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, 1872 Jane Morris by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, 1868 Symphony in White No 1 by James MccNeill Whistler, 1862 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

  27. Visual Arts & Costume Aesthetic Dress Oscar Wilde, 1882 Countess Brownlow, 1879 Couple in Aesthetic Dress, 1880s The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

  28. Visual Arts & Costume Aesthetic Dress A Private View at the Royal Academy 1881 William Powell Frith The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

  29. Visual Arts & Costume Art Nouveau House of Worth, 1898 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

  30. Costume for Women The 1890s Fashion Plate, 1892 Evening gowns, 1893 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

  31. Costume for Women The 1890s Tailor-mades, 1890s The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

  32. Costume for Women The 1890s 1890s The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

  33. Costume for Women The 1890s Walking Suits, 1894 Bicycle suit, 1890s The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

  34. Costume for Men 1870-1900 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

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