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Tree Fruit and Small Fruit

Fruit is FUN; Fruit is challenging!. Today:Give a broad overviewDiscuss specific fruit crops and problemsLearn how to use EB 125

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Tree Fruit and Small Fruit

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    2. Fruit is FUN; Fruit is challenging! Today: Give a broad overview Discuss specific fruit crops and problems Learn how to use EB 125 – UME’s Home Fruit Production Guide Future: Keep learning… Visit fruit plantings PLANT SOME FRUIT! Learn it, do it, teach it Fruit gardening is HOT now. Very easy to spend too much time and money for a poor result. Knowledge, research, and planning will lead you to success.Learn it, do it, teach it Fruit gardening is HOT now. Very easy to spend too much time and money for a poor result. Knowledge, research, and planning will lead you to success.

    3. Reasons to grow fruit Flavor and quality, high store price, versatility, health benefits It’s a challenge lots to learn (part science, art, and mystery) long lived plants that require timely care and attention each season But please… start small; start with small fruit Take less space, more forgiving, can be grown organically, less expensive to maintain and easier to dig up Can I make the necessary commitment to tree fruit? Can I make the necessary commitment to tree fruit?

    4. Fruit crops for Maryland Small fruit Major- strawberry, blackberry, raspberry, blueberry, grape Minor- currant, gooseberry, jostaberry, hardy kiwi, elderberry, beach plum, aronia Tree fruit Major- apple, European pear, peach, plum (Asian and European), sweet and tart cherry, fig Minor- Asian persimmon, Asian pear, paw paw, Depends on what part of MD. Even with global warming it can be tough to grow peaches or nectarines of Hagerstown, MD. Dormant peach buds are killed when temperatures reach 10-15 degrees below zero. Apricot not going to work in many sections of MD. First to bloom; get frosted out 3 out of 4 years in Central MD. Too cold for muscadine grape. Native grape- Vitis labrusca is more hardy than European wine grape- Vitis vinifera.Depends on what part of MD. Even with global warming it can be tough to grow peaches or nectarines of Hagerstown, MD. Dormant peach buds are killed when temperatures reach 10-15 degrees below zero. Apricot not going to work in many sections of MD. First to bloom; get frosted out 3 out of 4 years in Central MD. Too cold for muscadine grape. Native grape- Vitis labrusca is more hardy than European wine grape- Vitis vinifera.

    5. Will I have to spray a lot? Pest problems (commercial growers spray): Peach (many pests) Apple (many pests) Sweet cherry Japanese plum Grape Can grow these organically: Fig Raspberry/blackberry Currant Strawberry Blueberry Asian pear Asian persimmon European plum Sour cherry Plum, pear can take some neglect and heavier soils. Apple and peach are the most challenging tree fruits. Plum, pear can take some neglect and heavier soils. Apple and peach are the most challenging tree fruits.

    6. How do plants work? All plants “work” in the same basic way. This is an illustration of an annual flower which is much different than a perennial fruit plant where we are striving to harvest usable fruit. A big flower display could lead to very few fruit if they all set. If only 5% of peach or apple blossoms become fruits we will have a full crop! All plants “work” in the same basic way. This is an illustration of an annual flower which is much different than a perennial fruit plant where we are striving to harvest usable fruit. A big flower display could lead to very few fruit if they all set. If only 5% of peach or apple blossoms become fruits we will have a full crop!

    7. How do fruit plants compare to tomato plants? Perennials that require 12-month attention Require “hardening” (chilling hours) to survive winter and produce fruit Maximum yields come with the correct balance of root, leaf, and fruit growth Important to know when and where they produce flower buds and fruit Correct pruning is essential to control growth and encourage fruiting

    8. Choose a site/improve the soil Start planning one year before planting Do I have enough room? Enough time? What’s practical for me? Select a full-sun, well-drained site Amend soil to achieve correct pH and high organic matter content Work with your macro-, meso-, and micro-climates Macro- can’t grow apricots in Hagerstown Meso- plant peach on northern exposure site to retard spring bloom Micro- plant fig next to a brick wall facing south; plant raspberries on the north side of blackberries. Peach, plum, apricot, V. vinifera have thin bark easily damaged by cold temp. Fruit plants need well-drained, fertile soil. Pear can tolerate somewhat imperfectly drained soil. Small fruits can be cut down to ground if necessary. Drainage test: How do you know whether or not your soil drains poorly? What affets does poor drainage have on plant growth, on life in the soil. What are causes of poor drainage?   Test- lay a tarp on the ground with a shovel, yardstick and watering can. Make a 12x12x12 hole in sod where poor drainage is suspected. Lay square of sod on tarp followed by soil.   Stand yard stick in hole. Fill hole with water. Tell audience that drainage is ok if water level goes down 1 in./hr. Drainage is slow if level goes down less than 1 in./hr., and drainage is too fast if level declines more than 1 in./hr.   Come back an hour later to look at level. Macro- can’t grow apricots in Hagerstown Meso- plant peach on northern exposure site to retard spring bloom Micro- plant fig next to a brick wall facing south; plant raspberries on the north side of blackberries. Peach, plum, apricot, V. vinifera have thin bark easily damaged by cold temp. Fruit plants need well-drained, fertile soil. Pear can tolerate somewhat imperfectly drained soil. Small fruits can be cut down to ground if necessary. Drainage test: How do you know whether or not your soil drains poorly? What affets does poor drainage have on plant growth, on life in the soil. What are causes of poor drainage?   Test- lay a tarp on the ground with a shovel, yardstick and watering can. Make a 12x12x12 hole in sod where poor drainage is suspected. Lay square of sod on tarp followed by soil.   Stand yard stick in hole. Fill hole with water. Tell audience that drainage is ok if water level goes down 1 in./hr. Drainage is slow if level goes down less than 1 in./hr., and drainage is too fast if level declines more than 1 in./hr.   Come back an hour later to look at level.

    9. Picking cultivars Select well-adapted, recommended cultivars with good disease resistance Do I need a special rootstock? Do I need more than one cultivar for pollination? Buying high quality plants- “certified”, “registered” Bareroot plants will catch up to container plants We have good dwarfing rootstocks only for apple and now sweet cherry. We have good dwarfing rootstocks only for apple and now sweet cherry.

    10. What if my plants arrive too early? Keep roots moist and keep plants cool “Heel in” plants outdoors OR Keep plants in garage or refrigerator March and September are good times for re-locating plants.March and September are good times for re-locating plants.

    11. Planting- remove all flower buds and fruit the first year or more depending on species, cultivar and rootstock. For ex., dwarf apple can bear in year 3 (remove blooms first two years) but a standard tree may take 5-7 years to even produce any flowers.Planting- remove all flower buds and fruit the first year or more depending on species, cultivar and rootstock. For ex., dwarf apple can bear in year 3 (remove blooms first two years) but a standard tree may take 5-7 years to even produce any flowers.

    12. Water and fertilizer Regular watering throughout the year is essential Shallow-root small fruit plants are especially vulnerable to drought stress Fertilize with 1 inch of compost each spring Use fertilizers according to recommendations Be careful not to over-fertilize

    13. Weeds and mulch Avoid herbicides Keep mulch away from trunks and crowns Organic mulch, pea gravel Grass or other living covers can compete with fruit plants for water and nutrients

    14. Wildlife “issues”

    15. Pruning Control size and shape Invigorate- stimulate new fruiting wood Improve air circulation and increase sunlight interception Renewal pruning- blueberry, grape, peach, currant, brambles Pruning to prevent biennial bearing problem Thinning cuts are less stimulating. Heading cuts force bud breaking behind the cut. Other reasons- remove diseases, infested, damaged, dying wood, crossing branches, adv. Shoots, root suckers Light pruning required on pear, apple, plum to encourage growth and maturity. Overly pruned trees remain juvenile and delays fruiting. Old, weak, neglected trees in low vigor can take heavy pruning to reduce canopy and bring it back to fruiting. Debate over cutting back whips. Why would you want to or not want to cut it? The idea of balancing top growth with existing roots has probably gone too far. The primary reason is to force laterals for scaffold branches. When is pruning done- dormant season. Peach not until bloom. Late summer pruning can lead to new growth that prevents plant from hardening off. Summer pruning of foliage around apples and grapes is ok. Removing succulent peach shoots, suckers, floppy bramble canes, etc. is all ok. Heading (stimulating) vs. thinning (less stimulating) cuts. What is apical dominance and how does it affect plant growth and fruiting? Apical dominance in fruits- king berry keeps succeeding fruits smaller; a heavy apple crop reduces fruit bud formation leading to a biennial fruiting pattern.Renewal pruning- blueberry, grape, peach, currant, brambles Pruning to prevent biennial bearing problem Thinning cuts are less stimulating. Heading cuts force bud breaking behind the cut. Other reasons- remove diseases, infested, damaged, dying wood, crossing branches, adv. Shoots, root suckers Light pruning required on pear, apple, plum to encourage growth and maturity. Overly pruned trees remain juvenile and delays fruiting. Old, weak, neglected trees in low vigor can take heavy pruning to reduce canopy and bring it back to fruiting. Debate over cutting back whips. Why would you want to or not want to cut it? The idea of balancing top growth with existing roots has probably gone too far. The primary reason is to force laterals for scaffold branches. When is pruning done- dormant season. Peach not until bloom. Late summer pruning can lead to new growth that prevents plant from hardening off. Summer pruning of foliage around apples and grapes is ok. Removing succulent peach shoots, suckers, floppy bramble canes, etc. is all ok. Heading (stimulating) vs. thinning (less stimulating) cuts. What is apical dominance and how does it affect plant growth and fruiting? Apical dominance in fruits- king berry keeps succeeding fruits smaller; a heavy apple crop reduces fruit bud formation leading to a biennial fruiting pattern.

    16. IPM- dealing with problems Abiotic problems- drought, poor soil, frozen buds, etc. Biotic problems- insects, diseases, deer, etc. EB 125- Home Fruit Production Guide Best prevention- IPM knowledge: right species and cuoltivar in the right place given the right care and attention. Diagnosing, preventing and treating predictable plant problems- know what to expect; anticipate problems Is spraying by a schedule really IPM? Disease prevention tips: resistant cultivars, raised beds where soil is heavy or poorly drained, drip irrigation (avoid overhead irrigation), thick organic mulch, keep weeds down, rogue out badly infected canes or individual plants, top-dress compost regularly, pick often (don’t let fruit become over-ripe), prune for good air circulation and to remove damaged, excessive, or damaged wood, prune out root suckers and water sprouts, remove diseased leaves and fruits from plants and from the ground during and at end of season, avoid summer pruning when weather is wet and hot.   Insect pest prevention tips: attract beneficials, plant resistant varieties, handpick egg masses, immature pests and adults, keep weeds down, use physical barriers like floating row cover and kaolin clay products, prune out infested shoots and canes, trap pests with bio-lures and sticky materials, remove and pick up and discard all infested fruits, pick often (don’t let fruit become over-ripe). Best prevention- IPM knowledge: right species and cuoltivar in the right place given the right care and attention. Diagnosing, preventing and treating predictable plant problems- know what to expect; anticipate problems Is spraying by a schedule really IPM? Disease prevention tips: resistant cultivars, raised beds where soil is heavy or poorly drained, drip irrigation (avoid overhead irrigation), thick organic mulch, keep weeds down, rogue out badly infected canes or individual plants, top-dress compost regularly, pick often (don’t let fruit become over-ripe), prune for good air circulation and to remove damaged, excessive, or damaged wood, prune out root suckers and water sprouts, remove diseased leaves and fruits from plants and from the ground during and at end of season, avoid summer pruning when weather is wet and hot.   Insect pest prevention tips: attract beneficials, plant resistant varieties, handpick egg masses, immature pests and adults, keep weeds down, use physical barriers like floating row cover and kaolin clay products, prune out infested shoots and canes, trap pests with bio-lures and sticky materials, remove and pick up and discard all infested fruits, pick often (don’t let fruit become over-ripe).

    17. Fruit profiles

    18. Strawberry Family: Rosaceae   Botanical name: Fragaria ananassa   Origins: derived from 2 N.A. species: F. virginiana- Virginia scarlet strawberry F. chiloensis- from Chile Both species were brought back to the old world, crossed to produce F. ananassa and then returned to N.A. in 18th century.   Recommended types: F. ananassa is the common June-bearing strawberry. So-called “everbearers” will flower during short days- they often produce a June and September crop. Day-neutral cultivars are more likely than the everbearers to flower and fruit regardless of day-length. However, neither will flower and fruit continuously in MD when temps. exceed 80ºF. F. vesca is the wood strawberry or Fraises de bois and F. vesca sempivirens is the alpine strawberry. Neither are well-adapted to MD.   Hardiness: Down to -20ºF if well mulched. Over-wintering is not a problem.   Botany & habit Compressed stems with fleshy buds that produce leaves and flowers Runners arise from axillary leaf buds Flowers with long days; buds are formed in late Sept. as days shorten. Aggregate fruits with 100-500 ovules per flower. Seeds (achenes) imbedded in fruit skin. Flesh is enlarged receptacle. Bees required for pollination. Seed development determines size and shape of fruit. King berries are largest- have most pistils. Each succeeding set of berries, secondary, tertiary, etc. will be smaller in size.   Site, soil, and culture: Avoid planting in turf areas unless left fallow or in cover crop for one year (due to white grub problem.) They like ammonium; top-dress with 3# ammonium nitrate per 100 ft. row in ;late August. Sweep fertilizer off foliage. Mulch with 1 bale straw per 100 sq. ft. area after 3 nights below 20ºF. Cover plants completely. Floating row cover in early spring will also help protect plants from frost. Damage occurs at following temps: tight cluster (22?F.), blooms (28?F.), small fruit (26?F.) Strip flowers off plants first year after planting. Will fruit following year. Beds “play out” after 3-4 years. Renew (renovate) beds after 2-3 years picking if getting crowded and less productive. Top-dress plants with 4# 10-10-10 per 100 sq. ft. of area after harvest season. Mow plants to within 4 inches of ground and remove the debris. Narrow row to 12-18 inches with tiller, rake or spade. Thin plants to 6 inches in each direction. Fertilize lightly in late Aug.. Irrigate bed throughout summer and fall!   Harvesting: Fruits are ripe 5 weeks after bloom. Usually a 3 week harvest but very variable due to spring weather conditions. Does not develop sugar off plant.   Family: Rosaceae   Botanical name: Fragaria ananassa   Origins: derived from 2 N.A. species: F. virginiana- Virginia scarlet strawberry F. chiloensis- from Chile Both species were brought back to the old world, crossed to produce F. ananassa and then returned to N.A. in 18th century.   Recommended types: F. ananassa is the common June-bearing strawberry. So-called “everbearers” will flower during short days- they often produce a June and September crop. Day-neutral cultivars are more likely than the everbearers to flower and fruit regardless of day-length. However, neither will flower and fruit continuously in MD when temps. exceed 80ºF. F. vesca is the wood strawberry or Fraises de bois and F. vesca sempivirens is the alpine strawberry. Neither are well-adapted to MD.   Hardiness: Down to -20ºF if well mulched. Over-wintering is not a problem.   Botany & habit Compressed stems with fleshy buds that produce leaves and flowers Runners arise from axillary leaf buds Flowers with long days; buds are formed in late Sept. as days shorten. Aggregate fruits with 100-500 ovules per flower. Seeds (achenes) imbedded in fruit skin. Flesh is enlarged receptacle. Bees required for pollination. Seed development determines size and shape of fruit. King berries are largest- have most pistils. Each succeeding set of berries, secondary, tertiary, etc. will be smaller in size.   Site, soil, and culture: Avoid planting in turf areas unless left fallow or in cover crop for one year (due to white grub problem.) They like ammonium; top-dress with 3# ammonium nitrate per 100 ft. row in ;late August. Sweep fertilizer off foliage. Mulch with 1 bale straw per 100 sq. ft. area after 3 nights below 20ºF. Cover plants completely. Floating row cover in early spring will also help protect plants from frost. Damage occurs at following temps: tight cluster (22?F.), blooms (28?F.), small fruit (26?F.) Strip flowers off plants first year after planting. Will fruit following year. Beds “play out” after 3-4 years. Renew (renovate) beds after 2-3 years picking if getting crowded and less productive. Top-dress plants with 4# 10-10-10 per 100 sq. ft. of area after harvest season. Mow plants to within 4 inches of ground and remove the debris. Narrow row to 12-18 inches with tiller, rake or spade. Thin plants to 6 inches in each direction. Fertilize lightly in late Aug.. Irrigate bed throughout summer and fall!   Harvesting: Fruits are ripe 5 weeks after bloom. Usually a 3 week harvest but very variable due to spring weather conditions. Does not develop sugar off plant.  

    20. Common strawberry pests

    21. Blackberry Perennial crown; biennial canes Very well adapted to all parts of Maryland Types: Thorny erect (excellent flavor) Thornless trailing (rampant growers; large fruit) Thornless erect (good choice for small spaces) Primocane-bearing, thorny erect Relatively new primocane-bearing blackberry (thorny)- ‘Prime Ark’, ‘Prime Jim’, ‘Prime Jan’ Blackberry   Family: Rosaceae   Botanical name: Rubus eubatus   Origins: 400 spp. Worldwide wild, Eastern N.A. blackberries are R. allegheniensis (erect with prickles) and R. baileyanus (trailing dewberry) Two cultivated types are erect and semi-trailing. Cultivars derived from American-European crosses.   Recommended erect, thorn-less cultivars: ‘Apache’ - Univ. of Arkansas release; ripens earlier than Navaho but later than Arapaho. ‘Navaho’- ’88, Univ. of Arkansas (highly regarded by some MD growers) ‘Arapaho’- ’93, “ “ (ripens earlier and produces more canes from roots; very resistant to orange rust.) Flavor of thorny type better than thorn-less type. However, ‘Arapaho’ and ‘Navaho’ are superior in flavor to semi-trailing cultivars ‘Chester’ and ‘Hull.’   Hardiness: erect type- hardy down to -15ºF. semi-trailing- hardy down to 0ºF. trailing types (loganberry, dewberry) not hardy blackberries can take our summer heat   Botany & habit: perennial crown; biennial canes. new shoots come from crown buds in spring; erect type also makes root suckers (semi-trailing do not). flower buds are formed at the end of summer on main stems and the following spring on laterals. Lower canes are unproductive; first 5 nodes on laterals are sterile aggregate fruit- 60-150 pistils per fruit; each pistil contains 2 ovules- one develops into seed the other into drupelet. Receptacle (core) stays with harvested fruit. Bees required for pollination. fruited canes removed at end of harvest. Flower buds should be stripped off bottom 20 inches of floricanes. Easy to transplant; easy to renew neglected plants by cutting them back to ground. Tip rooting of semi-trailing type can be a problem- they must be kept off ground.   Site and soil: keep 300 ft. from wild blackberries to prevent virus diseases.   Spacing: erect type- plant 2’ apart in row; maintain 1 ½ ft. wide hedgerow; 4-6 shoots per lineal ft. of row. Semi-trailing form a clump; 8’ between plants.   Harvesting: first harvest 2nd year after planting. Pick when blackberries lose their shine and become dull.Relatively new primocane-bearing blackberry (thorny)- ‘Prime Ark’, ‘Prime Jim’, ‘Prime Jan’ Blackberry   Family: Rosaceae   Botanical name: Rubus eubatus   Origins: 400 spp. Worldwide wild, Eastern N.A. blackberries are R. allegheniensis (erect with prickles) and R. baileyanus (trailing dewberry) Two cultivated types are erect and semi-trailing. Cultivars derived from American-European crosses.   Recommended erect, thorn-less cultivars: ‘Apache’ - Univ. of Arkansas release; ripens earlier than Navaho but later than Arapaho. ‘Navaho’- ’88, Univ. of Arkansas (highly regarded by some MD growers) ‘Arapaho’- ’93, “ “ (ripens earlier and produces more canes from roots; very resistant to orange rust.) Flavor of thorny type better than thorn-less type. However, ‘Arapaho’ and ‘Navaho’ are superior in flavor to semi-trailing cultivars ‘Chester’ and ‘Hull.’   Hardiness: erect type- hardy down to -15ºF. semi-trailing- hardy down to 0ºF. trailing types (loganberry, dewberry) not hardy blackberries can take our summer heat   Botany & habit: perennial crown; biennial canes. new shoots come from crown buds in spring; erect type also makes root suckers (semi-trailing do not). flower buds are formed at the end of summer on main stems and the following spring on laterals. Lower canes are unproductive; first 5 nodes on laterals are sterile aggregate fruit- 60-150 pistils per fruit; each pistil contains 2 ovules- one develops into seed the other into drupelet. Receptacle (core) stays with harvested fruit. Bees required for pollination. fruited canes removed at end of harvest. Flower buds should be stripped off bottom 20 inches of floricanes. Easy to transplant; easy to renew neglected plants by cutting them back to ground. Tip rooting of semi-trailing type can be a problem- they must be kept off ground.   Site and soil: keep 300 ft. from wild blackberries to prevent virus diseases.   Spacing: erect type- plant 2’ apart in row; maintain 1 ½ ft. wide hedgerow; 4-6 shoots per lineal ft. of row. Semi-trailing form a clump; 8’ between plants.   Harvesting: first harvest 2nd year after planting. Pick when blackberries lose their shine and become dull.

    23. Raspberry Family: Rosaceae   Botanical name: Rubus ideobatus   Origins: 200 spp. Worldwide wild, N.A. raspberries are R. idaeus (red) and R. occidentalis (black); purple raspberry derived from a red-black cross; yellow raspberry is mutation. Cultivars derived from American-European crosses.   Recommended types: Fall bearing raspberries and blacks do best overall in Maryland, but all others can be grown successfully.   Hardiness: Reds- hardy down to -20ºF. Blacks and purples not quite as hardy. Blacks do better in our summer heat than reds. Reds are a more northern crop. Widely flucuating spring temps can be a problem for reds. Photosynthetic rates drop when temp. exceeds 80ºF.   Botany & habit: perennial crown; biennial canes. new shoots come from crown buds in spring; reds also makes root suckers (purples and blacks make clumps). Flower buds are formed at the end of summer on main stems and the following spring on laterals. Fruit bud density greatest on laterals. Aggregate fruit- 60-150 pistils per fruit; each pistil contains 2 ovules- one develops into seed the other into drupelet. Receptacle (core) stays on plant when fruit is picked. Bees required for pollination. Fruited canes removed at end of harvest. Primocane fruiting cultivars bear fruit at tips in late summer of 1st year. Lower stems flower and fruit following spring (low quality fruit). Can cut entire plant at 6-8 inches above ground-level in late winter for one late summer crop (this forces buds to break from crown)   Site and soil: keep 300 ft. from wild blackberries to prevent mosaic virus.   Spacing: erect type- plant 2’ apart in row; maintain 1 ½ ft. wide hedgerow; 4-6 shoots per lineal ft. of row. Semi-trailing form a clump; 8’ between plants.   Harvesting: first harvest 2nd year after planting. Pick when fully colored.   Notes: easy to transplant; easy to renew neglected plants by cutting them back to ground. Very susceptible to root drowning (submerged for 24 hrs.), wind and physical damage to canes. Family: Rosaceae   Botanical name: Rubus ideobatus   Origins: 200 spp. Worldwide wild, N.A. raspberries are R. idaeus (red) and R. occidentalis (black); purple raspberry derived from a red-black cross; yellow raspberry is mutation. Cultivars derived from American-European crosses.   Recommended types: Fall bearing raspberries and blacks do best overall in Maryland, but all others can be grown successfully.   Hardiness: Reds- hardy down to -20ºF. Blacks and purples not quite as hardy. Blacks do better in our summer heat than reds. Reds are a more northern crop. Widely flucuating spring temps can be a problem for reds. Photosynthetic rates drop when temp. exceeds 80ºF.   Botany & habit: perennial crown; biennial canes. new shoots come from crown buds in spring; reds also makes root suckers (purples and blacks make clumps). Flower buds are formed at the end of summer on main stems and the following spring on laterals. Fruit bud density greatest on laterals. Aggregate fruit- 60-150 pistils per fruit; each pistil contains 2 ovules- one develops into seed the other into drupelet. Receptacle (core) stays on plant when fruit is picked. Bees required for pollination. Fruited canes removed at end of harvest. Primocane fruiting cultivars bear fruit at tips in late summer of 1st year. Lower stems flower and fruit following spring (low quality fruit). Can cut entire plant at 6-8 inches above ground-level in late winter for one late summer crop (this forces buds to break from crown)   Site and soil: keep 300 ft. from wild blackberries to prevent mosaic virus.   Spacing: erect type- plant 2’ apart in row; maintain 1 ½ ft. wide hedgerow; 4-6 shoots per lineal ft. of row. Semi-trailing form a clump; 8’ between plants.   Harvesting: first harvest 2nd year after planting. Pick when fully colored.   Notes: easy to transplant; easy to renew neglected plants by cutting them back to ground. Very susceptible to root drowning (submerged for 24 hrs.), wind and physical damage to canes.

    24. Raspberry Perennial crown; biennial canes Less heat-tolerant than blackberry, but ok for all parts of MD Types: Red, purple, black; June bearing Red, yellow; primo-cane or “fall-bearing”. These can be cut 6-8 inches above ground-level in late winter or early spring. Blackberry chilling hours- 200-500 Raspberry- 700-800Blackberry chilling hours- 200-500 Raspberry- 700-800

    27. Bramble problems Orange rust- blackberry and black raspberryOrange rust- blackberry and black raspberry

    28. Grapes Vitis vinifera- European wine grapes (less cold-hardy than native grape and more prone to diseases. Vitis labrusca- native fox grapes (seeded and seedless) Grape   Family: Vitaceae   Botanical name: Vitis labrusca   Origins: V. labrusca- native fox grape V. rotundifolia- native muscadine (scuppernong is white type) V. vinifera- European wine grape American-European crosses   Recommended types: Grow V. labrusca; muscadine types not hardy in MD. French-American hybrids like Seyval and Foch are OK. V. vinifera cultivars are more disease prone, are less winter hardy, and may have other specific needs related to length of growing season and site.   Hardiness: V. labrusca- hardy down to -20ºF. V. vinifera and hybrids more cold tender; damaged at 0ºF to -10ºF.   Botany & habit Perennial crown; fruits on 2nd year wood. Older latent buds sometimes flower and fruit on older wood. Very deep root system. new shoots come from arms in spring. Shoots don’t end with terminal bud; grow all season. First year growth is a shoot; second year is cane. Compound buds formed during summer. Buds contain 4 growing points. If primary is killed by late freeze, crop is usually cut in 1/2. Lateral shoots grow from over-wintered buds and produce leaves and 1-2 flower clusters (panicles). Fruit is a true berry. Bees are not required for pollination.   Spacing: 8-10 ft. in row.   Harvesting: Will fruit 3 years after planting. Does not develop sugar off vine. Can be left when fully colored for up to 1 week before harvesting.   Notes: difficult to transplant; very long-lived plants if properly cared for. Failure to prune hard leads to fewer flower buds, small, poor quality fruit. Can get into biennial bearing pattern. Don’t allow more than 2 flower clusters per shoot develop. Leaves and shoots come out before flowers in spring. Must protect new growth with fungicide to prevent black rot. Grape   Family: Vitaceae   Botanical name: Vitis labrusca   Origins: V. labrusca- native fox grape V. rotundifolia- native muscadine (scuppernong is white type) V. vinifera- European wine grape American-European crosses   Recommended types: Grow V. labrusca; muscadine types not hardy in MD. French-American hybrids like Seyval and Foch are OK. V. vinifera cultivars are more disease prone, are less winter hardy, and may have other specific needs related to length of growing season and site.   Hardiness: V. labrusca- hardy down to -20ºF. V. vinifera and hybrids more cold tender; damaged at 0ºF to -10ºF.   Botany & habit Perennial crown; fruits on 2nd year wood. Older latent buds sometimes flower and fruit on older wood. Very deep root system. new shoots come from arms in spring. Shoots don’t end with terminal bud; grow all season. First year growth is a shoot; second year is cane. Compound buds formed during summer. Buds contain 4 growing points. If primary is killed by late freeze, crop is usually cut in 1/2. Lateral shoots grow from over-wintered buds and produce leaves and 1-2 flower clusters (panicles). Fruit is a true berry. Bees are not required for pollination.   Spacing: 8-10 ft. in row.   Harvesting: Will fruit 3 years after planting. Does not develop sugar off vine. Can be left when fully colored for up to 1 week before harvesting.   Notes: difficult to transplant; very long-lived plants if properly cared for. Failure to prune hard leads to fewer flower buds, small, poor quality fruit. Can get into biennial bearing pattern. Don’t allow more than 2 flower clusters per shoot develop. Leaves and shoots come out before flowers in spring. Must protect new growth with fungicide to prevent black rot.

    29. Seedless table grape cultivars

    30. Black rot- #1 problem in backyard grapes

    31. Blueberry 7 species native to MD; don’t dig up and move wild blueb. Whether in MD or ME. Huckleberry has ten seeds and you can feel them in your mouth. Blueberry fruit is many-seeded. Northern highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum) Southern highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum X Southern types) – 6-7 ft. tall; Reveille, Ozark Blue, O’Neal Rabbiteye (Vaccinium ashei) – Premier, Brightwell; 6-12 ft. tall; 8-14 lb. fruit/plant Family: Ericacaeae   Botanical name: Vaccinium corymbosum   Origins: native plants; 26 species include lingonberries, cranberries, bilberries (huckleberries have 10 seeds and are in different genus). V. corymbosum- highbush blueberry. Most widely cultivated; best adapted to mid-Atlantic. V. ashei- rabbiteye blueberry for S.E. USA. Not hardy here. V. angustifolium- low bush; hard to establish and maintain in MD. V. craslifolium- creeping ornamental type (also fruits) for Southern coastal plain region (‘Bloodstone’) Southern highbush are rabbiteye type X highbush type (e.g.‘Patriot’)   Recommended types: Highbush type grows best overall in Maryland. Southern highbush will break dormancy early; less winter hardy but more heat and drought tolerant than highbush type. Hardiness: Highbush- buds hardy down to -15ºF to -30ºF   Botany & habit Very shallow fibrous root system. Must never dry out. No root hairs; endomycorrhizae very important for extending root system through soil profile. perennial crown; fruits on wood 2-8 years old. Best fruiting wood is 5 years old. new shoots come from crown buds in spring. Shoots grow in successive flushes. Apex dies and laterals break below. flower buds differentiate from vegetative buds at the end of summer at the ends of young shoots and older canes; 5-10 flowers per bud. Old wood is un-productive. Epigynous fruit- fusion of receptacle and multi-seeded ovary. Bees required for pollination. Blooms turn a wine color if not pollinated. Pollinated flowers drop after 5-6 days. ‘Coville’, ‘Berkley’, ‘Jersey’ and ‘Earliblue’, not especially attractive to bees.   Site and soil: High organic matter soils feed the endomycorrhizae. Amend a 16” wide and 16” deep hole with peat moss, rooted manure, rotted sawdust. Bring pH down to 4.8 with iron sulfate and sulfur. May need to add ½ lb. sulfur per 1,000 sq. ft. each year to maintain low pH. Mulch with wood chips, rotted sawdust, or pine needles (wet the soil before applying mulch). Plants dry out quickly when temps. exceed 90ºF. Must receive regular water; root system can also drown. Very waxy leaves, slow transpiration rate. Stomata close during drought and growth stops. Plants need ammonium form of nitrogen: 21-0-0 (ammonium sulfate)   Spacing: 4-5 ft. in row.   Harvesting: Strip off flowers the first 1-2 years after planting. Premature cropping weakens plants. Fruits will ripen over a 5-7 day period after fully colored. Ready to pick when red ring disappears from stem end of fruit.   Notes: difficult to transplant; very long-lived plants if properly cared for. Iron chlorosis and conversion of ammonium to nitrate are problems when pH exceeds 5.5. Never prune during budswell or bloom. Fall pruning causes late spring blooming, protecting blooms from late frosts. Will not recover from wilting condition. Reddish leaf color in spring due to cold weather is normal. Water deeply before cold weather sets in.7 species native to MD; don’t dig up and move wild blueb. Whether in MD or ME. Huckleberry has ten seeds and you can feel them in your mouth. Blueberry fruit is many-seeded. Northern highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum) Southern highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum X Southern types) – 6-7 ft. tall; Reveille, Ozark Blue, O’Neal Rabbiteye (Vaccinium ashei) – Premier, Brightwell; 6-12 ft. tall; 8-14 lb. fruit/plant Family: Ericacaeae   Botanical name: Vaccinium corymbosum   Origins: native plants; 26 species include lingonberries, cranberries, bilberries (huckleberries have 10 seeds and are in different genus). V. corymbosum- highbush blueberry. Most widely cultivated; best adapted to mid-Atlantic. V. ashei- rabbiteye blueberry for S.E. USA. Not hardy here. V. angustifolium- low bush; hard to establish and maintain in MD. V. craslifolium- creeping ornamental type (also fruits) for Southern coastal plain region (‘Bloodstone’) Southern highbush are rabbiteye type X highbush type (e.g.‘Patriot’)   Recommended types: Highbush type grows best overall in Maryland. Southern highbush will break dormancy early; less winter hardy but more heat and drought tolerant than highbush type. Hardiness: Highbush- buds hardy down to -15ºF to -30ºF   Botany & habit Very shallow fibrous root system. Must never dry out. No root hairs; endomycorrhizae very important for extending root system through soil profile. perennial crown; fruits on wood 2-8 years old. Best fruiting wood is 5 years old. new shoots come from crown buds in spring. Shoots grow in successive flushes. Apex dies and laterals break below. flower buds differentiate from vegetative buds at the end of summer at the ends of young shoots and older canes; 5-10 flowers per bud. Old wood is un-productive. Epigynous fruit- fusion of receptacle and multi-seeded ovary. Bees required for pollination. Blooms turn a wine color if not pollinated. Pollinated flowers drop after 5-6 days. ‘Coville’, ‘Berkley’, ‘Jersey’ and ‘Earliblue’, not especially attractive to bees.   Site and soil: High organic matter soils feed the endomycorrhizae. Amend a 16” wide and 16” deep hole with peat moss, rooted manure, rotted sawdust. Bring pH down to 4.8 with iron sulfate and sulfur. May need to add ½ lb. sulfur per 1,000 sq. ft. each year to maintain low pH. Mulch with wood chips, rotted sawdust, or pine needles (wet the soil before applying mulch). Plants dry out quickly when temps. exceed 90ºF. Must receive regular water; root system can also drown. Very waxy leaves, slow transpiration rate. Stomata close during drought and growth stops. Plants need ammonium form of nitrogen: 21-0-0 (ammonium sulfate)   Spacing: 4-5 ft. in row.   Harvesting: Strip off flowers the first 1-2 years after planting. Premature cropping weakens plants. Fruits will ripen over a 5-7 day period after fully colored. Ready to pick when red ring disappears from stem end of fruit.   Notes: difficult to transplant; very long-lived plants if properly cared for. Iron chlorosis and conversion of ammonium to nitrate are problems when pH exceeds 5.5. Never prune during budswell or bloom. Fall pruning causes late spring blooming, protecting blooms from late frosts. Will not recover from wilting condition. Reddish leaf color in spring due to cold weather is normal. Water deeply before cold weather sets in.

    32. Other nifty small fruits Elderberry- Sambucus Ribes spp.- Currant- red, black and white Gooseberry- American, European and crosses Jostaberry

    33. Wineberry- very invasive! Rubus phoenicolasius- China native that displaces native plants Spreads by seed, suckers and tip rooting Delicious fruit- but Do Not dig up and transplant into your landscape

    34. Some keys to apple success: Dwarfing rootstock- BUD 9, EMLA 9, EMLA 26 Disease-resistant cultivars (scions); e.g. ‘Liberty’, ‘Goldrush’, ‘Enterprise’ Support with stakes and wire (vertical and oblique cordons work well) Close attention to pruning, pest monitoring Don’t kill ‘em with kindness EMLA 9 and BUD 9: 8 to 10 ft. tree EMLA 26: 8-12 ft. tree May be best to remove standard size trees that cannot be maintained. Up to 1/3 of a neglected tree can be removed in one season to open and lower the canopy. Tri-ploid apples- Jonagold, Crispin, Rhode Island Greening, Mutsu; need two diploid cultivars to have successful pollination and fertilization. Self-fertile & Partially Self-fertile Apple Varieties – Over 215 varieties listed. Self-fertile or partially self-fertile varieties, no pollinator required. Heavier fruit set will occur if a pollinator is provided. Triploid Apple Varieties – Over 160 triploid varieties listed. Triploid means that they have 3 pair of chromosome (3n = 51 chromosomes) rather than 2 pair (2n = 34 chromosomes) and all are sterile and require a pollinator. Generally, the fruit and trees are larger.EMLA 9 and BUD 9: 8 to 10 ft. tree EMLA 26: 8-12 ft. tree May be best to remove standard size trees that cannot be maintained. Up to 1/3 of a neglected tree can be removed in one season to open and lower the canopy. Tri-ploid apples- Jonagold, Crispin, Rhode Island Greening, Mutsu; need two diploid cultivars to have successful pollination and fertilization. Self-fertile & Partially Self-fertile Apple Varieties – Over 215 varieties listed. Self-fertile or partially self-fertile varieties, no pollinator required. Heavier fruit set will occur if a pollinator is provided. Triploid Apple Varieties – Over 160 triploid varieties listed. Triploid means that they have 3 pair of chromosome (3n = 51 chromosomes) rather than 2 pair (2n = 34 chromosomes) and all are sterile and require a pollinator. Generally, the fruit and trees are larger.

    35. Apple Pruning Why Prune? Reduce tree size or maintain manageable tree size.   Invigorate (break apical dominance)- promote new, vigorous growth that will eventually support tree functions and produce fruit.   Open canopy- increase light interception, improve spray coverage and air circulation (reducing disease problems).   All apple trees in all situations require some type of yearly pruning.   Early Training Know the growth and fruiting habits of the selected cultivars (e.g. is it a tip-bearer, a vigorous grower, precocious (early fruiting), notorious for weak leaders?)   Keep a picture in your mind of the ideal, mature tree- Christmas tree shape- central leader (main trunk) with scaffold branches positioned nearly horizontal to the ground (the lowest scaffold branches having the widest spread.)   Select 4-5 evenly spaced scaffold branches the season after planting, for the first tier. Head back your central leader so that it is 6- to 10-inches above the first tier. Select a second group of scaffold branches the second year that is 2-3 feet above the first tier. It is very important to force these scaffold branches to grow at a 60°-90°angle from the trunk.   The use of limb spreaders can aid in earlier fruit production, improved tree shape, strong crotch angles, and better fruit color. Spreaders can be either short pieces of wood with sharpened nails driven into each end, wooden, spring-type clothespins or sharpened metal rods. The spreaders will need to remain in place for 1-to 2-years until the branch “stiffens up.”   Unwanted branches should be removed or cut back early to avoid the necessity of large cuts in later years.   Pruning in Succeeding Years Years 4-10: continue to “tip” or “head back” the new terminal growth by one-fourth each year, cutting to an outside bud (to encourage branching out into sunlight). Remove any upright limbs. Trees should be pruned lightly.   Any broken, diseased, crossing, or interior upright shoots and small branches should also be removed. Always maintain the central leader as the highest point on the tree. The ends of the primary and secondary scaffolds should be kept below the top of the tree.   Mostly small thinning out cuts after year 10.   15”-20” of shoot growth per year is desirable. On “spur-type” cultivars 12” is desirable. Excessive shoot growth may be caused by over-fertilization and needs to be tipped back.   Pruning Tips Prune the trees every year in late winter (February or March). Young trees should never be pruned during or after bloom. Older trees can take later pruning.   Excessive pruning encourages excessive shoot growth, delays fruiting and reduces quality of fruit on young trees.   Older trees (25 years and older) will produce higher-quality fruit following a vigorous pruning. Make your thinning cuts back to the branch collar; do not leave stubs.   Remove sucker growth from the interior of the tree and around the base of the trunk annually.   Thinning out cuts (entire limb or shoot removal) are associated with increased flower bud production on apples. Heading-back cuts (shortening the ends of branches) encourage shoot growth.   Summer pruning should only be done to increase light penetration. Fruits need sunlight.   Remove and dispose of prunings from the orchard area. Dead wood will harbor disease organisms that can spread back into the tree.   Occasionally a tree does not grow as well as it should during the first year. If this happens prune the tree back to a whip and start over. You will delay fruiting by a year but you will have a more manageable tree. Why Prune? Reduce tree size or maintain manageable tree size.   Invigorate (break apical dominance)- promote new, vigorous growth that will eventually support tree functions and produce fruit.   Open canopy- increase light interception, improve spray coverage and air circulation (reducing disease problems).   All apple trees in all situations require some type of yearly pruning.   Early Training Know the growth and fruiting habits of the selected cultivars (e.g. is it a tip-bearer, a vigorous grower, precocious (early fruiting), notorious for weak leaders?)   Keep a picture in your mind of the ideal, mature tree- Christmas tree shape- central leader (main trunk) with scaffold branches positioned nearly horizontal to the ground (the lowest scaffold branches having the widest spread.)   Select 4-5 evenly spaced scaffold branches the season after planting, for the first tier. Head back your central leader so that it is 6- to 10-inches above the first tier. Select a second group of scaffold branches the second year that is 2-3 feet above the first tier. It is very important to force these scaffold branches to grow at a 60°-90°angle from the trunk.   The use of limb spreaders can aid in earlier fruit production, improved tree shape, strong crotch angles, and better fruit color. Spreaders can be either short pieces of wood with sharpened nails driven into each end, wooden, spring-type clothespins or sharpened metal rods. The spreaders will need to remain in place for 1-to 2-years until the branch “stiffens up.”  Unwanted branches should be removed or cut back early to avoid the necessity of large cuts in later years.   Pruning in Succeeding Years Years 4-10: continue to “tip” or “head back” the new terminal growth by one-fourth each year, cutting to an outside bud (to encourage branching out into sunlight). Remove any upright limbs. Trees should be pruned lightly.   Any broken, diseased, crossing, or interior upright shoots and small branches should also be removed. Always maintain the central leader as the highest point on the tree. The ends of the primary and secondary scaffolds should be kept below the top of the tree.   Mostly small thinning out cuts after year 10.   15”-20” of shoot growth per year is desirable. On “spur-type” cultivars 12” is desirable. Excessive shoot growth may be caused by over-fertilization and needs to be tipped back.   Pruning Tips Prune the trees every year in late winter (February or March). Young trees should never be pruned during or after bloom. Older trees can take later pruning.   Excessive pruning encourages excessive shoot growth, delays fruiting and reduces quality of fruit on young trees.   Older trees (25 years and older) will produce higher-quality fruit following a vigorous pruning. Make your thinning cuts back to the branch collar; do not leave stubs.   Remove sucker growth from the interior of the tree and around the base of the trunk annually.   Thinning out cuts (entire limb or shoot removal) are associated with increased flower bud production on apples. Heading-back cuts (shortening the ends of branches) encourage shoot growth.   Summer pruning should only be done to increase light penetration. Fruits need sunlight.   Remove and dispose of prunings from the orchard area. Dead wood will harbor disease organisms that can spread back into the tree.   Occasionally a tree does not grow as well as it should during the first year. If this happens prune the tree back to a whip and start over. You will delay fruiting by a year but you will have a more manageable tree.

    36. Apple problems and growth stages

    38. Over wintering cankers are the primary sources of fire blight bacteria for subsequent infections. During the spring under warm, humid conditions, the pathogenic bacteria multiply on the edge of cankers formed the previous year and are disseminated by insects, wind, and rain splash to susceptible tissue. Removing cankers as well as severely infected trees and blighted limbs is the first step to reduce over wintering bacteria. Late winter, when temperatures are still cold but not cold enough to cause winter injury, is the best time to remove over wintering cankers. The bacteria are still active in the fall, so pruning too early can spread fire blight, rather than remove the disease. What you can do in the fall is take a walk through the orchard and mark obvious fire blight strikes and cankers with spray paint - that will make your winter pruning job easier. If fire blight was encountered in the orchard last season, you may have used what is known as the "ugly stub" method for pruning it out. This method required the fire blight strikes to be cut out when symptoms first appear last season and before extensive necrosis developed. The cuts should have been made about 12 inches or more below the visible symptom, into 2-year old wood or older, leaving at least a 5 inch naked or "ugly" stub. If you notice a small canker on the ugly stub, don't worry, the tree usually confines the disease to the ugly stub. Winter is also the time to remove all ugly stubs from the orchard when temperatures are too cold for the bacteria to be active. Over wintering cankers are the primary sources of fire blight bacteria for subsequent infections. During the spring under warm, humid conditions, the pathogenic bacteria multiply on the edge of cankers formed the previous year and are disseminated by insects, wind, and rain splash to susceptible tissue. Removing cankers as well as severely infected trees and blighted limbs is the first step to reduce over wintering bacteria. Late winter, when temperatures are still cold but not cold enough to cause winter injury, is the best time to remove over wintering cankers. The bacteria are still active in the fall, so pruning too early can spread fire blight, rather than remove the disease. What you can do in the fall is take a walk through the orchard and mark obvious fire blight strikes and cankers with spray paint - that will make your winter pruning job easier. If fire blight was encountered in the orchard last season, you may have used what is known as the "ugly stub" method for pruning it out. This method required the fire blight strikes to be cut out when symptoms first appear last season and before extensive necrosis developed. The cuts should have been made about 12 inches or more below the visible symptom, into 2-year old wood or older, leaving at least a 5 inch naked or "ugly" stub. If you notice a small canker on the ugly stub, don't worry, the tree usually confines the disease to the ugly stub. Winter is also the time to remove all ugly stubs from the orchard when temperatures are too cold for the bacteria to be active.

    39. It’s sprayed on as a liquid, which evaporates, leaving a protective powdery film on the surfaces of leaves, stems, and fruit (full coverage is important). The white film works to deter insects in several ways. Tiny particles of the clay attach to the insects when they contact the plant, agitating and repelling them. Even if particles don't attach to their bodies, the insects find the coated plant or fruit unsuitable for feeding and egg–laying. In addition, the highly reflective white coating makes the tree less recognizable as a host. Surround enhances plant growth by cooling leaf surfaces so that photosynthesis continues longer into the afternoon on hot days, after untreated plants have shut down because of heat stress. White coating reduces sunburn on fruit and improves fruit color. Can be used on a wide variety of food crops and is supposed to suppress many insect pests. Surround is most effective once 3 uniform applications have been made. One coat of clay is simply not enough coverage to deter the insect's normal inclinations.  Heavy rain may necessitate additional applications. There appears to be no mammalian toxicity or any danger to the environment posed by the use of kaolin. Large predators (ladybird beetles, lacewings, syrphid fly larvae, spiders) do not seem to be harmed by Surround. Predatory mite numbers are suppressed. Coverage needs to be applied to the point of runoff and allowed to dry. A sticker-spreader isn't necessary. Figure on using 1/2# Surround per gallon of water. Surround stirs best into the water as opposed to pouring water into the dry powder. Numerous online suppliers.It’s sprayed on as a liquid, which evaporates, leaving a protective powdery film on the surfaces of leaves, stems, and fruit (full coverage is important). The white film works to deter insects in several ways. Tiny particles of the clay attach to the insects when they contact the plant, agitating and repelling them. Even if particles don't attach to their bodies, the insects find the coated plant or fruit unsuitable for feeding and egg–laying. In addition, the highly reflective white coating makes the tree less recognizable as a host. Surround enhances plant growth by cooling leaf surfaces so that photosynthesis continues longer into the afternoon on hot days, after untreated plants have shut down because of heat stress. White coating reduces sunburn on fruit and improves fruit color. Can be used on a wide variety of food crops and is supposed to suppress many insect pests. Surround is most effective once 3 uniform applications have been made. One coat of clay is simply not enough coverage to deter the insect's normal inclinations.  Heavy rain may necessitate additional applications. There appears to be no mammalian toxicity or any danger to the environment posed by the use of kaolin. Large predators (ladybird beetles, lacewings, syrphid fly larvae, spiders) do not seem to be harmed by Surround. Predatory mite numbers are suppressed. Coverage needs to be applied to the point of runoff and allowed to dry. A sticker-spreader isn't necessary. Figure on using 1/2# Surround per gallon of water. Surround stirs best into the water as opposed to pouring water into the dry powder. Numerous online suppliers.

    40. Peach Tap branches with towel or rag wrapped around stick to knock off young fruit. You only need 5% of total blooms to set fruit to have a bumper crop. Renewal pruning required to force new vegetative shoots that will bear fruit in year 2. Fertilize with N in early spring (heavy feeder)Tap branches with towel or rag wrapped around stick to knock off young fruit. You only need 5% of total blooms to set fruit to have a bumper crop. Renewal pruning required to force new vegetative shoots that will bear fruit in year 2. Fertilize with N in early spring (heavy feeder)

    41. Peach trees are subtropical plants; they have thin bark and are more susceptible to winter injury – especially freeze-thaw cracks. Early winter pruning exposes tree to more extreme cold injury. Warm days that follow winter pruning can stimulate growth. Wait till bloom or very early fruit formation to prune. You can see then see which 2 yr. shoots you want to keep and which to prune out.Peach trees are subtropical plants; they have thin bark and are more susceptible to winter injury – especially freeze-thaw cracks. Early winter pruning exposes tree to more extreme cold injury. Warm days that follow winter pruning can stimulate growth. Wait till bloom or very early fruit formation to prune. You can see then see which 2 yr. shoots you want to keep and which to prune out.

    44. Brown Rot:   This fungal disease damages blossoms (blossom blight), fruit on the tree, and fruit already purchased and sitting on the counter. It is spread by wind, water, insects, humans and can only enter through a wound or lenticel. In a single season the possibility exists for many cycles of infection. To prevent infection: remove mummies from ground and tree and remove fruit stems attached to the mummies. The fungus moves into the stems and overwinters. Prune before budbreak to reduce the incidence of blossom blight (fungus is active once green tissue is first observed in the spring). Rubbing the fuzz on a peach creates a wound opening. Insect induced injuries and rough handling will help spread the disease. Warm, rainy weather during the bloom period will greatly increase the inoculum levels. Fungicide control: a protective fungicide barrier is critical from pre-bloom through pre-harvest. The critical times to spray are when 5-10% of the blooms are open, at full bloom and about 2 weeks prior to harvest. If disease pressure has been high, cover sprays, beginning at petal fall, should also be included. Alternate captan with sulfur to slow resistance. For organic growers- 95% micro-fine wettable powder sulfur or flowable sulfur with surfactant are best. Sulfur kills fungus when it is gaseous stage; the finer the particles the more quickly the gas is produced. Harvesting- when background color is all yellow fruit has reached maximum sugar content; complete the ripening process for 1-2 days indoors. Brown Rot:   This fungal disease damages blossoms (blossom blight), fruit on the tree, and fruit already purchased and sitting on the counter. It is spread by wind, water, insects, humans and can only enter through a wound or lenticel. In a single season the possibility exists for many cycles of infection. To prevent infection: remove mummies from ground and tree and remove fruit stems attached to the mummies. The fungus moves into the stems and overwinters. Prune before budbreak to reduce the incidence of blossom blight (fungus is active once green tissue is first observed in the spring). Rubbing the fuzz on a peach creates a wound opening. Insect induced injuries and rough handling will help spread the disease. Warm, rainy weather during the bloom period will greatly increase the inoculum levels. Fungicide control: a protective fungicide barrier is critical from pre-bloom through pre-harvest. The critical times to spray are when 5-10% of the blooms are open, at full bloom and about 2 weeks prior to harvest. If disease pressure has been high, cover sprays, beginning at petal fall, should also be included. Alternate captan with sulfur to slow resistance. For organic growers- 95% micro-fine wettable powder sulfur or flowable sulfur with surfactant are best. Sulfur kills fungus when it is gaseous stage; the finer the particles the more quickly the gas is produced. Harvesting- when background color is all yellow fruit has reached maximum sugar content; complete the ripening process for 1-2 days indoors.

    45. Stick a wire in to pierce larvae. Stick a wire in to pierce larvae.

    46. Precocious fruiting.Precocious fruiting.

    49. Tales of woe Winter kill of un-protected fig 3/4 size, un-ripe fruits at the end of Oct.

    53. Thank you for participating! This Power Point will be posted on the MG state web site and will be periodically updated. Have questions? Consult eb 125, Home Fruit Production Guide Call or e-mail the Home and Garden Information Center- 1.800.342.2507; www.hgic.umd.ed PLANT FRUIT!! GROW FRUIT!!

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